Feature Photo by Zen Chung from Pexels
Food safety became a big concern for me whilst living in Vietnam, after reading an article about the hormones and unauthorised antibiotics that are commonly given to farm animals. The dangers do not stop at the farm gate as the pumping of untreated water into meat by market vendors is also common practice, making it heavier in weight and thus increasing its selling price as well as the chances of contamination. Most agricultural production in Vietnam takes place on small-scale farms.
Food shortages in the 1970s led to government subsidies for fertilisers and pesticides, which became widely available. As the country moved to a market economy, farmers started growing crops for profit, instead of subsistence, and their dependence on chemicals subsequently increased. Regulations of restricted and prohibited pesticides are inadequately enforced and some banned – and very toxic – chemicals are making their way across the border from China. In the absence of proper labels and instructions, most farmers have no idea of the correct dosages of the products.
ORGANIC CERTIFICATION
There are some producers that have made the transition to organic farming, however one of the difficulties many Vietnamese farmers have is providing certification to guarantee their produce is organic. Certification poses many challenges for small-scale rural farmers who supply the Hanoi markets. Strict third party certification is well beyond their reach, both in terms of cost and technical ability, however more recent organic participatory guarantee systems (PGS) offer an alternative through peer-review and social control, supporting appropriate farming practices, local market development, and social cohesion.
PGS is a guarantee system based on the involvement of people/organisations directly involved in the organic supply chain, it also ensures agro-biodiversity conservation and livelihood security by recognizing the merits of traditional practices and customs. These farms operate within a PGS framework outlined by the Agriculture Development Denmark Asia (ADDA) and Vietnam Farmers Union (VNFU) Organic Project under ‘National Basic Standards for Organic Products in Vietnam’ prepared by the Vietnamese Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development and further clarified in the PGS Organic Standards published by the ADDA and VNFU Organic Project (ADDA-VNFU 2011).
Soc Son is a district of Hanoi located about 40km northwest of the city centre, near Noi Bái International Airport. This rich delta region is largely rice fields but is undergoing a rapid transformation from countryside to suburb as the urban centre of Hanoi expands and the population radiates outward to the surrounding villages. The area has 13 PGS groups with 141 farmers, all growing market vegetables along with subsistence farm animals and rice fields. Most are operating under what can be called an ‘individual’ farm management system, wherein farmers are responsible for a small plot of land within an organic managed land area but work together on the sale of their products through the PGS. However, the ADDA-VNFU Organic Project is promoting a transition to what can be called ‘collective’ land management, wherein groups cooperate on the management of a single piece of farmland. The transition from individual plot management to cooperative land management has assured better crop rotations, more reliable fallow periods, higher use of green manures, better and more reliable yields and higher quality and productivity overall among these small-scale producers.
In an effort to find safe and traceable food in Vietnam, I have been doing some research in Hanoi where I live. The main problem when looking for organic produce is with certification. While there are many sellers claiming that their produce is organic, often it’s not actually certified organic, so unless the consumer visits the farm or factory where the product is made, it’s almost impossible to know whether the claim is genuine.
I try to visit or interview all the companies that I research, and have compiled a list of organic farms, grocery stores and restaurant owners in Hanoi and throughout Vietnam, asking them about their ingredients and sustainable practices. The listings denoted with a * are places I have not yet visited or spoken to, so cannot personally recommend, but I welcome your feedback.
GROCERY STORES & ORGANIC FARMS:
*BAO CHAU NATURALLY ORGANIC FARM: Bao Chau Naturally Organic Farm aims at providing clean, organic agriculture, giving consumers the best quality products, quality.
*BAO CHAU FARM – EMRA VIETNAM & ORGANIC FOOD – BAO CHAU THANG LONG
The Bao Chau organic food chain was established in 2009 and is the first organic livestock product chain in Hanoi (Japanese Certified Organic), applying Effective Microorganisms (EM ™) microbial technology in livestock and cultivation.
Bao Chau Natural Farm is a subsidiary of EM Vietnam, which is the first aquaculture in Vietnam. This is the first wasteless livestock farm in Vietnam and is reported by the press as the cleanest farm in Vietnam. Here livestock live in the cleanest environment and are living close to their inherent natural living conditions and are fed farm-prepared organic food using an EM fermentation method. The farm is implemented under the model of “from farm to dining table”, thus making the management agency of veterinary and food safety easy to control, enabling consumers to be more assured when using the farm’s products. 345 Lương Thế Vinh, Hanoi. https://www.facebook.com/baochauthanglong/
DO BEST FARM ORGANIC (DoBF): This is an urban farm and grocery store in Hanoi which sells a selection of fresh organic vegetables. DoBF Village, Yên Nghĩa, Hà Đông, Hanoi.
G FRESH ORGANIC GROCERY STORE: G Fresh is a vegan grocery store which sells a range of fresh and packaged organic produce, home-made sauces and eco-friendly products, such as laundry and washing up liquid, mouthwash as well as handmade soaps. They also recycle much of their packaging/containers, with the aim of being as sustainable as possible.
I visited the store and spoke to Grant, who told me that there is a rising awareness and demand for organic produce in Hanoi, but often people buying organic products are concerned whether the product they want to buy has actually been produced according to organic standards as food labelling is uncommon however Le Hong Giang the owner of G Fresh told me that their vegetables are sourced from organic farms in Soc Son and Moc Chau which are part of the PGS is a guarantee system. 83a Trinh Cong Street, Tây Hồ, Hanoi.
*HOI AN FARMERS MARKET: The aim of the market is to create a connecting environment between production and product consumption. 401B Cua Dai, Sơn Phô Park, Cẩm Châu Hoi An, Quảng Nam Province.
NATURALLY VIETNAM SHOP: This is the first premium quality label for traceable food products made in Vietnam. The vegetables are from farms in Da Lat that have reached the Organic/ VIETGAP standards. Other products are eco – friendly or organic and include organic tea, personal home care products such as bio hand liquid, organic dishwashing liquid and bio cleanser; dairy products, free-range eggs and meat products, sustainable fish and seafood and fruit and vegetables, which are categorised as Premium Organic, Organic – Gap or Food Safe.
Naturally VietNam shop also holds regular weekend markets selling a range of eco-friendly products, with the aim of creating a connection of culture and cuisine between Vietnamese people and foreigners in Vietnam. Number 4, Lane 67/12 Tô Ngoc Vân, Tây Hồ, Hanoi. https://www.facebook.com/NaturallyVietnamFood/posts/3844310032256832
ORGANIC CENTER: This is an organic grocery store with a diverse range of products from hair care to noodle imported from the US, Europe and Australia. 140 Vũ Phạm Hàm, Yên Hoà, Cầu Giấy, Hanoi. https://thucphamorganic.vn/
ORGANICA: Organica farm in Long Thanh, Dong Nai Province became the first tropical vegetables farm in Vietnam that gained USDA & EU organic farming certifications. It was founded in 2013 as a small business with the mission to provide consumers with the best, clean and officially certified, affordable products that are natural and not genetically modified (GMO). They now have stores throughout Vietnam.
- HO CHI MINH CITY: 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, Ward 6, District 3. / 54 Hoang Van Thu Street, Ward 9, Phu Nhuan District. / 77B Pham Viet Chanh Street, District 1. / 24 Nguyen Quy Duc, An Phu ward, District 2. / 60 Nguyen Duc Canh, Tan Phong ward, District 7, Ho Chi Minh City.
- DA NANG: 90 Hai Phong Street, Hai Chau Ward, Da Nang. / 94 Nguyen Huu Dat Street, Hai Chau Ward, Da Nang.
- HANOI: 5A1, Alley 192 Thai Thinh Street, Dong Da District, Hanoi.
*ORGANIK: This is an online grocery store offering free shipping in District 2, Ho Chi Min City. Organik is proud of the quality and freshness of its vegetables, herbs and fruit products. They try to build quality into every step of their farm to end-user process. These steps include production, processing and distribution. The production is either organic or GAP, (Good Agricultural Practices), which are a collection of principles applied to on-farm production processes, resulting in safe and healthy food, while taking into account economical, social and environmental sustainability. Da Tho Hamlet, Xuan Tho Commune, Dalat City, Lam Dong Province, Vietnam
*RAU4T: Rau4T is a group of researchers, environmentalists and farmers who want to carry out sustainable and environmentally friendly agriculture practices, supporting marginalised and small farms and providing The farms are located in Chuc Son, about 45 minutes from Hanoi, where their framers participate in organic farming training provided by international organisations.
The shop supplies fruit and vegetables that are certified by the National Fruits and Vegetables Research Institute, free-range chickens and ducks and seafood that is certified by the Vietnam Fisheries Society (VINAFISH). 172E Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi. Facebook: https://facebook.com/rau4T/
THANH DONG ORGANIC FARM: This is a community farm of eight families using organic and natural farming methods in Cam Thanh commune, Hoi An. The farm covers an area of over 10000 square meters and offers a half-day rural life and cooking experience where participants join farmers in their daily work of organic farming such as applying organic manure, making organic pesticides to control and prevent pests and cultivating the soil for planting and watering, followed by a cooking lesson using the harvested fresh vegetables to cook a Vietnamese lunch. Cam Thanh commune, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province. https://www.facebook.com/thanhdongcookingclass.
THE OASIS GROCERY STORE AND GOURMET SHOP: The Oasis Grocery Store sells a selection of organic vegetables and fruit but predominantly offers gourmet products such as fresh cheese and cold cuts, homemade pasta dishes, home-made sauces, freshly baked bread, focaccia pizza and cakes, grilled chicken, coffee, Italian wines as well as local and imported meats and a wide selection of sausages. 24 Xuan Dieu, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội.
*VIETGARDEN ORGANIC VEGETABLES: This is fruit & vegetable store whose goal is to bring consumers in Hanoi clean, quality and safe agricultural products. They have been producing organic food since 2014, that meets international standards. No 23, Lane 51, Lane 97, Van Cao Street, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. https://www.facebook.com/VietGarden.OrganicKitchen
VEGAN-VEGETARIAN-ORGANIC HANOI: This is a group where people can share restaurants that specialize in vegetarian and vegan food (share your top secret spot!), recipes, book suggestions (about food!) and organize dinners to try new eateries, organic & natural products etc. It is a copy-cat of the ‘Vegetarian and Vegans in Saigon’ Facebook and both are useful groups to gather info and meet new people who have the same interests in the city you live in. https://www.facebook.com/groups/VegetarianSaigon/
RESTAURANTS:
GREEN FARM ORGANIC RESTAURANT: Located in the heart of Hanoi, Green Farm Organic Restaurant combines the best of traditional Vietnamese and Western cuisines and cultures. They also running Vietnamese Cuisine cooking classes at their Viet Village Restaurant. 44 Đào Duy Từ, Hanoi: @greenfarmorganicrestaurant
LA GRACE & KEYS BAR: La Grace is a Vietnamese restaurant and café serving popular Vietnamese traditional dishes. They use organic ingredients, growing 75% of their vegetables themselves and the rest are from organic suppliers. 228A Âu Cơ, Quảng An, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội,
THE LOCALS: This is an organic farmshop, farm-to-fork restaurant and juice & smoothie bar. The Locals believe there is a strong connection between people and where their food comes from, however this is often overlooked as a result of industrial food systems. The Locals feel it’s important to stay connected with people who are growing the food we eat. Opened in July 2020, The Locals set out to be a modern and sustainable dining experience, promoting the Eat Clean diet. The “Clean Eating” diet is about eating whole foods (non-processed or extremely low-processed foods) such as cereals, fruits, lean meats, and nuts and healthy fats. Dishes at The Locals are processed according to the simplest methods to keep maximum nutrients in each food and fresh foods are harvested directly at natural farms, using organic fertilizer from Dalat. 55C Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hà Nội.
THE VEG – ORGANIC VEGO & TEA: The Veg delivers selected organic plant-based nutritious whole food, vegetarian meals and Viet traditional, herbal tea. They work with prestigious organic farms which meet strict organic standards, with no use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, antibiotics, or growth hormones. All their nuts and vegetables are organic. Their menu is changed regularly to bring new experiences to customers. 48 Tràng Tiền, French Quarter, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi.
MAISON DE TET DÉCOR: This is a café/restaurant offering a great selection of snacks, meals, cakes, coffee and drinks that are prepared from scratch and do not contain industrial processed foods or MSG. The menu also includes a range of traditional Vietnamese dishes such as specialities cooked in a clay pot and bun cha, as well as vegan and gluten free options and uses fresh local ingredients, many of which are free range and organic. Most of their fresh produce comes from the restaurant’s own organic farm “Fragrant Path” in Dai Lai, Soc Son. 26 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Hanoi.
NOURISH EATERY: Nourish is a vegetarian/vegan restaurant located on the edge of the old town, in Hoi An. The idea behind NOURISH eatery is that only natural ingredients are used, and everything is made from scratch in an eatery where you can feel at home.
Frank, the owner told me that it is difficult to find certified organic ingredients locally, but all fresh fruit and vegetables are bought from the local market and many ingredients are sourced from Refillables in Hoi An; all their fresh produce arrives in reusable bags.
NOURISH are committed to the environment and try to limit their waste and use of plastic – they use sustainable take-away boxes without the use of any plastic and for take-away juices they use a glass reusable bottles (for 10 k extra) and use bamboo straws instead of plastic ones. Most of their food waste is given to the animals of their staff (chickens etc.). They use the coffee grounds for their plants and plan to compost in the future. 220a Nguyen Duy Hieu, Hoi An. https://www.facebook.com/nourisheatery
URBAN FRESH: Urban Fresh is a gastro style café/restaurant situated directly by the river in a quieter area of the old town, in Hoi An. The concept for the restaurant is to use the beautifully fresh & local ingredients native to Hoi An and to bring food from farm to table. They also offer delivery, utilizing eco-friendly packaging.
I had lunch here and it was one of the best meals I had during my stay, so it’s well worth a visit. 37 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An.