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What are Nanoplastics?
Nanoplastics are microscopic particles, which are constructed at a molecular level, using nanotechnology. To try to understand just how small they are, imagine a particle 80,000 times smaller than the width of a human hair, or 1/5,000th the thickness of a sheet of paper.
This technology is so delicate and complex that it has taken a long time for engineers, scientists, and manufacturers to work out the most cost-effective ways of using it. Nanotechnology has literally thousands of applications in material construction and has the potential to revolutionise the way in which any product could be made in the future.
How is Nanotechnology used for Cosmetics?
The widespread use of nanoparticles in cosmetics today is directly related to their particle size. Initially, nanoparticles found their way into beauty products as a solution for making sunscreen transparent. Iron oxide and titanium dioxide, which were conventionally used in sunscreen for their powerful UV blocking properties usually left an unpleasant white coating on the skin, however as nanoparticles these ingredients solve this issue.
Today nanoparticles are being incorporated in an increasing number of personal care and beauty products, to enhance absorption by the skin, for their antibacterial properties, improved UV protection, improved texture, and longer shelf life.
The most common types of nanomaterials that are used in personal care products are liposomes, nanoemulsions, Nanocapsules, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanocrystals, nanosilver and nanogold, dendrimers, cubosomes, hydrogels and buckminster fullerene, or buckyballs, however you probably won’t find these listed on the product ingredients.
What are The Potential Risks of Using Nanoparticles?
The problem with “nanotechnology” is that the industry isn’t properly regulated yet, which often happens when new technologies are brought into use and therefore many companies that readily use this technology are also eager to hide the use of these engineered nanoparticles in their products.
Most of ingredients used in cosmetics are too big to penetrate the skin, but both iron oxide and titanium dioxide for example, used in sunscreens are metals, and as nanoparticles their size allows them to be easily absorbed into the bloodstream as they penetrate deeper, and enter the cells more easily than conventional materials.
The International Agency for Research on Carcinogens is particularly concerned about titanium dioxide, as reports indicate that once absorbed into the bloodstream, it may lead to extensive organ damage and can also potentially alter cell DNA, thus causing other serious health repercussions.
In fact, sunscreens have been the subject of much debate; despite being considered the safest protector from UV rays, zinc oxide nanoparticles in contact with heat are believed to promote the production of free radicals, which paradoxically increases the risk of skin cancer.
In recent years new types of nanoparticles have been added to cosmetic products; one example is silver, known as nanosilver, which is used for its antibacterial properties, however there is increasing evidence that when used in cosmetics it could be toxic to human beings and the environment.
There is an increasing amount of evidence that “Possible undesirable results of these capabilities are harmful interactions with biological systems and the environment, with the potential to generate toxicity”.
Other concerns are that If nanoparticles are inhaled they become embedded in the lung walls, and as the body cannot remove these foreign particles they accumulate potentially leading to lung inflammation. Titanium dioxide, when used in a non-airborne form is considered safe, however if inhaled it has the same effect on lungs as asbestos, therefore can cause lung cancer.
Another nanoparticle of great concern is fullerene, which when applied to the skin is easily absorbed into the body and tests on animals have resulted in severe brain damage or even death; in humans, fullerene has been linked with liver damage and may even affect the human body’s immune system.
MICROPLASTICS & MICROBEADS
Microplastics are defined as “extremely small pieces of plastic debris in the environment resulting from the disposal and breakdown of consumer products and industrial waste”. They are less than 5 millimeters in size and are intentionally added to all kinds of beauty and personal care products.
Microplastics are also formed through the breakdown of larger plastics – covering everything from bottles and fishing equipment to car tyres and synthetic fabrics.
Microbeads are a kind of microplastic that range in size from roughly 0.5mm to 5mm and are found in toothpaste and body and facial washes, but they may also be in lipstick, foundation, eyeliner, sunscreen, deodorant, nail polish and other personal care products. Microbeads are used as an abrasive or exfoliant, as cheap bulking agents, to prolong shelf life by trapping and adsorbing degradable ingredients, and as emulsifying or film-forming agents in leave-on products such as makeup to improve the skin texture, enhance the tinting strength of pigments or increase the adhesion of the powder.
After you’ve scrubbed your face or brushed your teeth these microbeads go down the drain and as they don’t degrade or dissolve in water and can easily pass through conventional wastewater treatment systems, they end up in our lakes and oceans. Once in the water, microbeads can have a damaging effect on the environment due to their composition and ability to adsorb toxins and ultimately they affect the health and well-being of all life forms, humans, birds, animals, and wildlife, through ingestion, entanglement, and habitat disruption. Plankton, the smallest ocean creatures, eat microbeads, absorbing their toxins and displacing the nutritive algae that creatures up the food chain require. They are also mistaken for food by fish and other marine life, so they fill their stomachs with waste that cannot be processed as food. These tiny plastics persist in the environment as they are almost impossible to remove.
Once in the water, microbeads can have a damaging effect on the environment due to their composition and ability to adsorb toxins, and ultimately, they affect the health and well-being of all life forms, humans, birds, animals, and wildlife, through ingestion, entanglement, and habitat disruption. Plankton, the smallest ocean creatures, eat microbeads, absorbing their toxins and displacing the nutritive algae that creatures up the food chain require. They are also mistaken for food by fish and other marine life, so they fill their stomachs with waste that cannot be processed as food. These tiny plastics persist in the environment as they are almost impossible to remove.
There are more than 500 microplastic ingredients that are still widely used in all kinds of cosmetics and personal care products and more than 100 sceptical microplastics, for which there is currently not enough information available, as ongoing scientific research needs to establish whether they should be recognized as microplastics or not.
Some manufacturers continue to use microbeads in their products, which are sold in countries where they have not yet been banned. You can check the ingredients on the product for these common microbead substances: Polyethylene (PE), Polypropylene (PP), Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and Nylon (PA).
PHTHALATES
Phthalates are a group of chemicals employed as plastic softeners used in hundreds of different products, from plastic toys to medical devices, and act as binding agents and solvents in many cosmetics. The primary phthalates used in cosmetic and personal care products are diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP), used as a plasticizer; dimethylphthalate (DMP), used in hair sprays as a softener, allowing them to form a flexible film on the hair; dibutylphthalate (DBP), used as a plasticizer in nail polishes to impart flexibility after it dries and to reduce cracking and diethylphthalate (DEP), which is commonly used as a solvent and as a fragrance fixative in most products that contain a fragrance, from shampoo, deodorants, perfumes to detergents and air fresheners.
As phthalates are not chemically bound to plastics, they can leach out of products after repeated use, heating, and/or cleaning of the products. Due to the overuse of DEHP in many products, it can be found in air, water, and soil as it enters and pollutes the environment through release from industrial settings and plastic waste disposal sites.
As they can be absorbed through the skin or inhaled, there is public concern about phthalates because of their widespread use and their potential effects on human health. DBP is known to be an endocrine disruptor that can alter hormonal balance and potentially cause reproductive and developmental issues. A study in 2008 by a Harvard-led research team concluded that levels of certain phthalates were linked to sperm DNA damage among, the US Consumer Product Safety Commission acknowledged that exposure to certain phthalates may induce adverse effects to the thyroid, liver, kidneys and immune system. DEHP has also been classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer and the EPA as possibly carcinogenic.
LEGISLATION & ALTERNATIVES
Some Phthalates, such as DBP and DEHP have been banned by the EU, but in Canada they do not have to be disclosed in the ingredients, because they are components of fragrance and so are exempt from federal labelling requirements, however DEP is still a commonly used ingredient in many cosmetic and beauty products from nail polish, bath salts, cleansers and lotions.
What Can You Do to Avoid The Risk?
Researchers noted that more testing and thorough investigation into the long-term effects of nanoparticles and microplastics in cosmetics is needed to understand their effect on our bodies as the health impacts on humans is not fully known. However, if you want to learn more about the plastics that surround us, you can visit the Plastic Health Coalition website to find out more.
Meanwhile, look for the following commonly used plastic ingredients in your products: polyethylene (PE), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), nylon (PA), polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polypropylene (PP) and look out for a Zero Plastic Inside logo on the packaging, a recycling sing containing a zero. The logo is carried by brands that don’t use any microbeads in their products.
The campaign Beat the Microbead was initiated by the Plastic Soup Foundation and sponsored by the United Nations Environment Programme, the initial idea was to raise awareness, educate people and track down plastic. You can check out their detailed Red List to find out if your product contains microplastics, or you can scan the product using the “Beat the Microbead” app. For a full list of plastic ingredients, go to www.beatthemicrobead.org
Alternatively, you switch to organic and 100% plant-based beauty products that contain only naturally derived ingredients such as: antioxidants, essential fatty acids, vitamins and therapeutic grade herbal extracts as well as deeply hydrating and soothing carrier oils & essential oils.
"TOXIC BEAUTY" THE DOCUMENTARY
If you would like to learn more about the chemicals in our beauty products, you can also watch the 90-minute award winning documentary by Phyllis Ellis called “Toxic Beauty“*, which explores the truth about the hidden dangers in cosmetics and personal care products. The documentary follows the class action lawsuit against Johnson & Johnson (J&J) after world renowned epidemiologist, Dr. Daniel Cramer conducted a research study in 1982 which linked J&J’s baby powder to ovarian cancer. More information can be found here.
’Since the 1960’s, J&J have allegedly known the risks and have done nothing. In this documentary top researchers worldwide provide solid science to refute skeptics and big industry experts who say that toxins and chemicals in cosmetics and personal care products are harmless.
“POWERFUL, ALARMING AND WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY SEND AT LEAST A FEW PEOPLE STRAIGHT TO THEIR BATHROOMS TO DUMP THE CONTENTS OF THEIR MAKEUP BAGS.”
CHRISTINE SISMONDO, TORONTO STAR
The documentary website also provides useful information and links to free apps that will help you avoid harmful chemicals and help you make informed choices. EWG’s ‘Healthy Living’, app enables you to scan a barcode, search by name or browse by category, and will give you an easy-to-understand 1-10 score (1 being the best!) of the product, which is backed by science you can trust. The Silent Spring’s ‘Detox Me’ app is a reliable healthy lifestyle guide that empowers you to eliminate toxic chemicals from your daily life with simple, research-based tips on reducing your exposures. The THINK DIRTY app is a great way to learn about the potentially toxic ingredients in your cosmetics and personal care products. It’s an independent source that allows you to compare products as you shop. You can scan the product barcode and Think Dirty will give you easy-to-understand info on the product, track dirty ingredients, and shop for cleaner options.
THE GOOD NEWS
In 2014, the Netherlands was the first country to legislate against cosmetic microbeads, banning the import, manufacture, and sale of microbeads in rinse-off cosmetics by the end of 2016. Other countries followed suit with the U.S. prohibiting the manufacturing, packaging, and distribution of rinse-off cosmetics containing plastic microbeads from July 2017 and the U.K. banning the use of microbeads in rinse off cosmetics and personal care products in January 2018. Several other countries have banned the use of microbeads in certain products – in particular in rinse-off cosmetics – including Canada, France, New Zealand, Sweden, Taiwan, Ireland, Italy, India and Thailand, however all the countries that took action against microplastics were in relation to cosmetics and care products and have banned only microbeads and not all plastic ingredients.
In countries where microbeads have been banned, manufactures are adapting their products by either foregoing microbeads or using alternatives such as naturally abrasive materials including cocoa beans, ground almonds, ground apricot pits, seeds, sea salt, shells, ground pumice and oatmeal. These materials mainly biodegrade when released in the environment.
If you want to get involved the United Nations Environment Programme launched the Clean Seas Campaign in 2017 with the goal of galvanizing a global movement to Beat Plastic Pollution. Since then, 60 countries have pledged to do their part to reduce the prevalence of single-use plastics. Click on the link to learn more about the campaign and how you can help.
**Please note that this is not medical advice, and is my opinion, based on my personal research. The information provided in this article aims to discuss the various chemicals in beauty and personal care products, enabling you to make informed decisions based on what is best for you. If you are worried about a skin condition or need medical advice, contact a licensed medical professional for the information you need.
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