Nail polish is notoriously packed with nasty chemicals, such as vaporous solvents, endocrine disruptors and carcinogens, so you can imagine how delighted I was to hear about Manucurist, a clean range of vegan nail polishes that have forever replaced visits to my local gel nail beauty spa!
MANUCURIST: BRAND MISSION
Manucurist is an award-winning vegan and cruelty-free brand, made in France, that is leading the example for change to clean ingredients within the nail industry. At Manucurist, they put health first, and pride themselves on swapping harsh ingredients for natural, eco-friendly alternatives that promote glossy, long-lasting manicures and healthy nails.
“OUR MISSION IS TO BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WITH OUR MOOD-BOOSTING POLISHES AND WE WANT THEM TO BE AS HEALTHY AND CLEAN AS POSSIBLE. ENOUGH IS ENOUGH.
OUR COSMETICS ARE GOOD FOR YOUR MORALE AND YOUR HEALTH AND MADE IN FRANCE WITH LOVE FROM THE MOST NATURAL INGREDIENTS POSSIBLE. OUR BEAUTY PRODUCTS HAVE NO BAD INGREDIENTS AND ARE ALWAYS #CRUELTY FREE & #VEGAN”.
Gaëlle Lebrat-Personnaz
NAIL COLOUR - THE NEW WAY
I first discovered Manucurist when I was visiting my sister in France who gave me a manicure using Manucurist products and I absolutely loved the glossy finish – it was really long lasting too, as my nails were still looking beautifully polished by the end of my holiday over a week later; in fact Manucurist Green Flash polish can last up to ten days without chipping! Since then, I’ve tried a range of shades from my go-to red – Anémone, as well as Aubergine, Saphir, and Red Coral in the Green Flash range and Navy Blue and Red Cherry in the Green range.
GREEN FLASH HEMA-FREE GEL NAIL POLISH
My favourite was the Green Flash gel nail polish which is the first HEMA-free gel polish made of up to 84% bio-sourced ingredients and comes in a selection of shades for every mood. Green Flash gel comes in a green bottle and is the first ever LED nail polish that is applied like conventional gel polish in three simple steps: base coat, colour, then top coat. Each coat should be applied in 2 or 3 brushstrokes and it dries within minutes under an LED lamp and is formulated without toxic ingredients which makes it the perfect alternative to traditional gel polish.
Click here to watch the “how to apply” video: Link.
GREEN FLASH - THE HEALTHIER NAIL POLISH REMOVAL PROCESS
Removing “classic” gel nail polish can be a long, fiddly and painful process, which isn’t a gentle removal method, and is really bad for the health of your nails. When polish is removed using a nail drill or acetone-based remover, the polish isn’t the only thing under attack. Acetone is a solvent and when it is applied to your nails, it dissolves the resin in your nail polish, which removes it. The problem is that our nails are covered with a natural oily film that nourishes them and helps protect them from external aggressors. Also, the nail contour is partly composed of water. Applying acetone dissolves the oily film on the nail and dries out the nail contour, and harsh substances can weaken your nails, leading to complications.
But there’s no need to panic! With Green Flash, you can say goodbye to nail drills and excessive filing. Green Flash gel nail polish can be removed as easily as regular polish, in just one minute using a gentle, acetone-free nail polish remover. Manucurist Green Flash nail polish remover works quickly and gently. Its castor oil-enriched formula with its delicate floral fragrance moisturises and cares for your nails.
Simply apply a cotton pad soaked in Green Flash nail polish remover to each nail (held in place with a nail clip) and leave on for1 minute, pressing down firmly. Rub gently from left to right, pulling towards the outer edge of the nail to avoid leaving residue on your cuticles. If there is any base coat residue left, rub it again with a cotton pad soaked in remover. Finish off the removal process with some Green Oil to nourish the nail and nail contour. Never peel or scratch off your polish before removing it, as this risks removing the layers of keratin that protect the surface of your nail.
Watch a video of these steps by clicking here.
WHAT IS HEMA?
Found in traditional gel nail polish Hydroxyethylmethacrylate (HEMA) monomers and Di-HEMA Trimethylhexyl Dicarbamate (Di-HEMA TMHDC) oligomers are two colourless viscous liquids that belong to the chemical family of acrylates and methyl-acrylates and have the property of sticking together under UV or LED light to form a hard film, helping to increase the staying power of gel polish. Found in traditional gel nail polish, they can only be removed with acetone and abrasive nail drills and are highly reactive and volatile.
WHAT ARE THE RISKS?
The problem is that behind these long, hard to pronounce names lie two small allergenic molecules, that have been causing concern since 2016, due to the fact that they are “sensitising”, when they come into contact with the skin. The risk is that nail products containing these chemicals may be applied with insufficient precision, causing contact with the skin adjacent to the nail plate, which can cause severe allergic and inflammatory skin reactions.
On contact with the skin, these molecules are able to pass through the skin’s superficial top layer or cuticles and reach the epidermis. Their high chemical reactivity means they can bond to proteins in the epidermis by modifying them. The “modified” proteins in the epidermis are then seen as foreign by your immune system, which creates an allergic-type inflammatory reaction to defend the body.
Found in traditional gel nail polish, they can only be removed with acetone and abrasive nail drills and are highly reactive and volatile, which means there is also a risk of inhalation, irritation of respiratory mucous membranes and asthma.
once allergic, always allergic?
The development of skin sensitisation (allergic and inflammatory skin reactions) starts when an allergenic substance activates the immune system. The first contact with an allergenic substance does not usually cause visible symptoms and often occurs away from the first exposure site. However, re-exposure to the same substance can make the allergy manifest itself when a person encounters the substance again – called allergic contact dermatitis.
Unlike the irritation process, if repeated over time, skin sensitisation becomes permanent, leading to lifelong sensitivity, because the body remembers the immune response. Skin sensitisation is irreversible and cannot be cured, however symptoms can diminish if exposure is avoided, but people who are sensitised must avoid exposure to the allergen for the rest of their life if they wish to avoid the symptoms, especially as contact to similar substances later on may cause allergic reactions even if that substance was not the one causing the original allergic reaction – this is known as cross-reactivity.
Studies and scientific reports have revealed the “sensitising” effects of these molecules on the skin, ranging from relatively minor responses, such as itching and redness of the skin, to more severe, such as massive swelling, flaking of the skin, skin lesions and scabs during flare-up – depending on how potent the allergen is. These small molecules are also very volatile and can be inhaled, especially if you’re exposed to them daily.
RESTRICTIONS AND THE REGULATION
Since its launch in 2019, Manucurist has been ahead of the regulations with their innovative Green Flash, offering a new generation of cleaner, greener, gel polish that does not include any sensitising HEMA or Di-HEMA TMHDC molecules in its formulas. From September 2021, these molecules are now prohibited from direct sale to the public in the EU through a new European regulation (eu) 2020/1682), which only authorises its conditional sale to nail care professionals, who are encouraged to use protective measures such as vacuum tables, filter masks and nitrile gloves.
Unfortunately, these products are still very easy to obtain, exposing consumers to serious allergy risks, as they continue to circulate on the market.
Green Flash: the risk-free alternative that fully complies with regulations
Green Flash by Manucurist, is the result of extensive research and development work, and complies with the regulation, is authorised for sale to the public and replaces HEMA monomers or Di-HEMA TMHDC with copolymers, which are made from an assembly of three molecules, each with a different composition.
Unlike HEMA monomers and Di-HEMA TMHDC, Manucurist copolymers are not sensitising. They are much larger, less reactive, non-volatile and cannot penetrate the skin or trigger allergic inflammatory skin reactions.
MANUCURIST BLACKLISTED INGREDIENTS:
Here are the blacklisted ingredients you won’t find in Manucurist products:
TOLUENE
Toluene, which is a petrochemical solvent that helps make the polish less sticky; it helps keep nail polish smooth and even when applied and keeps the colour from separating in the bottle. It has been linked to issues affecting the nervous system with symptoms such as dizziness, headaches, nausea and eye irritation and even low levels of toluene can, if inhaled, cause nausea, memory and hearing loss and weakness. It has also been linked to birth defects and developmental problems in children and is classed as an endocrine disruptor and a potential CMR (carcinogen, mutagen and reprotoxin). According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG) database:
“MOTHER’S EXPOSURE TO TOLUENE VAPOURS DURING PREGNANCY MAY CAUSE DEVELOPMENTAL DAMAGE IN THE FETUS. IN HUMAN EPIDEMIOLOGICAL STUDIES AND IN ANIMAL STUDIES TOLUENE HAS BEEN ALSO ASSOCIATED WITH TOXICITY TO THE IMMUNE SYSTEM AND A POSSIBLE LINK TO BLOOD CANCER, SUCH AS MALIGNANT LYMPHOMA”.
The Environmental Working Group is a nonprofit, nonpartisan organization dedicated to shining a spotlight on outdated legislation, harmful agricultural practices and industry loopholes that pose a risk to our health and the health of our environment. Toluene is prohibited in European cosmetics but is not banned by the United States.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with bio-sourced solvents: ethyl acetate (sugar cane) and butyl acetate (cassava).
Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP)
Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) is an oily liquid that belongs to a family of chemicals called phthalates. It is a plasticiser that makes nail polish more flexible and less prone to cracks and chips.
Phthalates are a group of chemicals employed as plastic softeners widely used in hundreds of different products, from plastic toys to medical devices. They are not chemically bound to plastics, so they can leach out of products after repeated use, heating, and/or cleaning of the products and can be released from consumer products into the environment. There is a wide range of different phthalates, and each have specific properties, uses, and health effects; as they can be absorbed through the skin or inhaled, there is public concern about them because of their widespread use and their potential effects on human health.
DBP is known to be an endocrine disruptor that can alter hormonal balance and potentially cause reproductive and developmental issues, changes in the testes and prostate, and reduced sperm counts. It is particularly harmful to pregnant women as it can cause malformations in an embryo if it is absorbed through the skin. DBP is also used as a solvent for dyes and is prohibited in European cosmetics, as it is a CMR (carcinogen, mutagen and reprotoxin), however, it is not banned by the United States.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with sorbitol, a bio-sourced plasticiser potato.
For more information on phthalates, visit my article – SKIN DEEP: THE PROBLEM WITH PLASTICS AND NANO PARTICLES
XYLENE
Xylene is a colourless, flammable liquid, and has a very distinctive odour – it’s the chemical that you smell when painting your nails. It helps nail polish keep its smooth liquid form and helps it less sticky. The vapours can cause irritation to the eyes, nose, skin, and throat. Eye exposure to xylene vapor is the most common form of exposure, which may cause redness, pain, swelling, tearing and hazy vision; inhalation of xylene vapor is the most dangerous type of exposure causing depression of the central nervous system which results in dizziness, headache, nausea and vomiting. It is also classed as an endocrine disruptor, is linked to effects on the immune, metabolic, respiratory and reproduction functions.
Nail workers particularly may be harmed from exposure to xylene as if large amounts of xylene are inhaled, much more serious effects are likely to occur such as confusion, loss of muscle coordination, and in high doses, death, however, the level of exposure depends upon the dose, duration, and work being done.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with bio-sourced solvents: ethyl acetate made from sugar cane and butyl acetate made from cassava.
FORMALDEHYDE
Formaldehyde is a chemical that is often used as a preservative, sterilizer and embalmer and is added to nail polishes as “nail hardeners“, bonding with the keratin that occurs naturally in the nails, forming tough, shiny and durable films on nails. It may be listed on the product label as formaldehyde or by different names, such as “formalin” and methylene glycol.” If used on a regular basis, nail hardeners like formaldehyde may make nails brittle and more likely to break or peel.
Formaldehyde is considered to be a carcinogen, linked to nasal, nasopharyngeal and lung cancers, by the International Agency for Research on Carcinogens (IARC). Formaldehyde Resin (or Tosylamide) is a polymer derived from formaldehyde that is also used in nail polish and should be avoided.
Exposure usually occurs through inhaling formaldehyde gas or vapor from the air or by absorbing liquids containing formaldehyde through the skin. Studies have found that workers exposed to high levels of formaldehyde, such as industrial workers and embalmers, are more susceptible to myeloid leukemia and rare cancers, including cancers of the paranasal sinuses, nasal cavity, and nasopharynx.
European health protections now limit the concentration of formaldehyde in cosmetics to 0.2%. However, in the U.S., there are no restrictions on the levels of formaldehyde allowed in any body care products.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with sorbitol, a bio-sourced plasticiser made from potato.
CAMPHOR
Camphor is used to give conventional nail polishes their glossy, shiny appearance but can cause discolouration of the nails turning them a yellow colour and stripping them of their nutrients. It’s not as toxic as the other ingredients mentioned, but it can still cause nausea, dizziness, and headaches when inhaled, especially in large doses, making it a concern for nail technicians however, it is poisonous when ingested in large quantities, although that is unlikely to happen with nail polish.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with sorbitol, a bio-sourced plasticiser (potato).
HYDROQUINONE
Hydroquinone is used as a preservative and helps stabilise nail polish formula to stop the polish from reacting with UV light and solidifying in the bottle. It has most commonly led to photosensitivity, which means your skin is ultra-sensitive to the sun, among other skin conditions, however, can also lead to hyperpigmentation and darkening of the fingernails. The pigment has been described as chestnut brown and typically worsens with continued use. Hydroquinone is a possible carcinogen, has been linked to genetic abnormalities and has been banned in concentrations higher than 1% in the EU.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with vitamin E (tocopherol) found in sunflower oil.
Ethyl tosylamide/epoxy resin
Ethyl tosylamide/epoxy resin is a plasticiser and is used to provide depth, gloss, flow and adhesion as well as good resistant films in nail polish. It can also be used as a plasticizer to help polishes dry faster. While the EWG rates this as a low hazard, Ethyl Tosylamide has been linked to antibiotic resistance, a side-effect that does not outweigh the benefit of having a chip-free nail polish.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with sorbitol, a bio-sourced plasticisers made from potatoes.
Triphenyl phosphate (TPHP)
Triphenyl phosphate (TPHP) is a plasticiser commonly used in nail polish to increase the malleability and flexibility of the product. Once dry, nail polish should still be flexible otherwise it will be prone to breaking and chipping. Some epidemiological studies in humans have found correlations between TPHP and decreased sperm counts and others suggest that it could be an endocrine disrupter and has been linked to changes in hormone levels, metabolism and reproductive health and development.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with sorbitol, a bio-sourced plasticiser (potato).
Benzophenone
Benzophenone is used as a stabiliser and preservative and is used for absorbing and protecting nail polish against harmful UV rays that can deteriorate and discolour them. According to EWG, benzophenone is persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT), which means that they are resistant to degradation through chemical, biological and photolytic processes and build up in the environment over time and can therefore have potential risks for exposed populations, including the general population, consumers and commercial users. Research conducted by the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI) has linked benzophenone to breast, ovarian and prostate cancer, endocrine disruption, and organ system toxicity, and it has been found in human placental tissue.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with vitamin E (tocopherol), which is found in sunflower oil.
STYRENE
Styrene is a monomer that becomes polystyrene when the molecules are linked together. Styrene is used predominately in the production of polystyrene plastics and resins and is used as a film-forming agent in nail polish. This synthesised molecule is an irritant and harmful If ingested, as styrene can be toxic to red blood cells and the liver; if inhaled, it is toxic to the central nervous system, and is a known endocrine disruptor. According to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC), a national science-based advocacy organization working to prevent breast cancer by eliminating environmental exposures linked to the disease, styrene is a possible carcinogenic, as exposure to styrene can result in an increased risk of breast cancer.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with partly bio-sourced oligomers found in corn, wheat and potatoes.
Monomers
Monomers are a group of small molecules that join together to form a plastic under UV light. In the nail industry, the most common monomers used for nail polish are EMA-based (ethyl methacrylate) monomers, and as they are small enough to penetrate the skins barrier and enter the body, they can result in an adverse reaction, such as redness, swelling, and pain in the nail bed, among people who have become sensitive (allergic) to methacrylates.
MANUCURIST has replaced it with monomers that are already partly joined together – oligomers, which cannot penetrate the body.
HOW TO STORE MANUCURIST POLISH
To ensure that you preserve the quality of the polish try to open it as little as possible and close it as quickly as possible, and if the weather is hot, keep it in the fridge as reducing the temperature helps prevent the polish from evaporating and slows down the rate at which the ingredients deteriorate. If this isn’t possible, use some of the Green Flash thinner to make the polish smooth again.
MANUCURIST GREEN RANGE
Manucurist also have a Green range, which is a range of regular nail polishes that are vegan and cruelty-free and contain up to 84% natural ingredients. They are free from nine of the chemicals often found in nail polish and instead is formulated with simple ingredients like potatoes, corn, wheat and sugarcane that reacts to natural UV lights and dries in the air, without the need of a lamp. The remaining percentages ensure that the products retain their intense colour and shine while still being healthy and kind to the environment, however like the Green Flash range you can see the full list of ingredients on the “Ingredients” tab of the product description page.
There are 70 colours to choose from that provide an extreme shine and beautiful pigmentation, which last up to five days.
MANUCURIST PETITE RANGE
As well as the Green Flash range, Manucurist also have a Petite Manucurist range of nail polish, with smaller brushes, that are suitable for even young children. The range are made from water – based formulas and can be easily washed off in soapy water.
The Petite Manucurist range come in mini bottles and have names like “Rosie the Rabbit, Scarlett the Owl and Lily the Unicorn and provide a pop of colour and glitter.
A full list of ingredients can be found on the “Ingredients” tab of the product description page.
glitter and special effect powders
I was also excited to see the range of sparkly and glittery nail powders that are all compatible with Green & Green Flash polish: Glazed Effect Powder, that creates a pearly sheen effect; the Mirror Effect Powder, that reflects the light and transforms your nails into jewels (you can play around with the intensity of the chrome effect by applying your powder to dark and not-so-dark colours); and the Biodegradable Rose Gold Glitter, which is fully biodegradable and comes in three different sizes to create different looks and effects.
WRAPPING IT ALL UP
I was happy to see that my nail polish arrived in a box that can be composted or recycled. The packaging chips were made from 100% corn starch, so they’re not harmful to health or the environment. To recycle them, you can either compost them or wash them down your sink, as they’re completely water soluble.
Manucurist are offering Free Shipping if you spend £39 or more!
For more information about Manucurist visit their website here.
