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When it comes to fabrics, wool stands out for its natural charm and versatility. Sourced from sheep’s fleece, wool has been cherished for centuries due to its warmth, softness, and resilience, however, just like anything else, it’s important to understand the environmental and animal welfare implications of wool production.
What is Wool?
Wool is a natural fibre that originates from the hair of animals, primarily sheep. It is one of the oldest textile materials known to man, with its use dating back to around 10,000 years ago. The wool fibre is unique in its remarkable ability to regulate temperature, making it an ideal textile to keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
Sheep wool is classified into three primary categories: fine, medium, and broad, based on the diameter of the fibre, which is measured in microns (one-millionth of a meter). Merino wool, for example, is the finest and most sought-after of them all and is often favoured within the textile industry, with Australia as the main producer. Although wool only accounts for 1.2% of the global apparel market by volume, it constitutes 8% of its value, emphasising wool’s status as a luxury fibre.
Despite this, it’s important to note that not all wool is created equal though. This means it’s not necessarily from sheep, but it can also be from other animals, such as:
- Yak, which produces two types of fibre guard hair and down.
- Goat, which produces cashmere, mohair and angora.
- Camelid such as vicuna, alpaca, llama and guanaco produce wool-like fibre used in textiles.
- Possum hair is sometimes blended with other animal fibres for textiles.
The history of wool
The use of wool for washing, weaving, and wearing has been around since 10,000 BCE. Merino sheep, specifically, originated in Spain and in 1789, King Charles IV gave six of them as a gift to the Dutch government. These sheep eventually made their way to South Africa and were later sold to British army officer, politician, and entrepreneur John Macarthur, who transported them to Australia. That’s why today, Australia is responsible for producing 80% of the world’s Merino wool used in high-end fashion and suiting.
From taking care of the sheep to turning raw fleece into a finished textile, wool was also one of the main reasons women started being considered essential to a male-led society.
Undoubtedly, this was an art that was passed down from one generation to the next, cementing this role in ancient societies. From the Mesopotamian times to the bustling streets of medieval Europe until today, this unassuming fibre has made a lasting impression on our shared history.
How wool is made
1. Shearing
The journey begins with a skilled shearer, who carefully removes the fleece from the sheep. This process is akin to giving the sheep a much-needed haircut, and it’s usually and hopefully done in a way that ensures their comfort and well-being.
2. Sorting and Grading
Once the fleece is removed, it’s sorted into different categories based on factors like fibre length, fineness, and colour. This ensures that each batch of wool is tailored to specific applications, be it soft blankets or robust outerwear.
3. Cleaning
The wool is then immersed in warm water and mild detergent to remove any dirt, grease, and lanolin. This gentle bath rejuvenates the wool and prepares it for the next phase.
4. Carding and Combing
Carding and combing align the fibres, removing any tangles or knots. This process produces a fluffy and airy material, perfect for softer applications, or a sleeker, smoother yarn suitable for more refined textiles.
5. Spinning
Using a spindle or spinning wheel, the wool is twisted into yarn. This process imparts strength and structure, and allows for a range of textures, from fine and smooth to chunky and robust.
6. Dyeing and Finishing
Wool can be left in its natural hues or transformed into a kaleidoscope of colours using natural or synthetic dyes. Nonetheless, like with any other natural material, there are many finishing procedures such as brushing or coating with resin, which can be used to alter the final product’s texture and durability.
Related – Loopy Ewes: Winner Of The RSA Soil-To-Soil Knitwear, Farm To Finished Product Award
7. Weaving or Knitting
The last step is the one in the hands of skilled artisans, who use looms or knitting needles to bring the wool to life, weaving intricate patterns and crafting cosy knits.
Wool’s impact
While wool is celebrated for its natural warmth and durability, lower carbon emissions and the absence of plastic pollution, however, it’s essential to acknowledge that its production is not without its drawbacks. We need to explore the environmental and animal welfare issues associated with wool production, by taking a balanced perspective on this beloved natural fibre.
Land Use and Overgrazing
One significant concern in wool production is the potential for overgrazing, which can lead to soil degradation and damage to delicate ecosystems. Large-scale sheep farming can outpace the land’s ability to regenerate, resulting in long-lasting environmental impacts.
Water Usage
Just like any other fibre production process, the process of washing, scouring, and dyeing wool can be water-intensive, exacerbating local environmental challenges in areas where water is scarce. Sustainable practices, such as water recycling and responsible dyeing techniques, are crucial in mitigating this impact.
Chemical Inputs
Chemicals used to treat sheep for parasites, control pests, and promote growth can lead to environmental pollution if not managed properly.
Mulesing
Mulesing is the method of preventing flystrike by removing folds of skin from a sheep’s breech area, which is a controversial practice that raises serious ethical concerns. Alternatives, such as breeding sheep with less susceptible skin or implementing vigilant flystrike prevention measures, are currently only being explored to address this issue.
Shearing Practices
Shearing, when done improperly, can lead to injuries or stress for the sheep. Proper techniques must be used to ensure the animals’ safety and well-being, and ethical farmers prioritise the welfare of their sheep.
Transport and Handling
The transportation and handling of sheep can be stressful for the animals, especially in large-scale operations.
We’ve maybe seen the horrible PETA videos that show the poor conditions these animals are treated on huge transportation ships.
Proper facilities, adequate space, and humane handling practices are essential to minimise stress and ensure the sheep’s well-being throughout their journey.
CONCLUSION
To conclude, the truth is that, although this industry is not seen as one that kills, wool is a slaughter industry full of hidden cruelty and environmental destruction. From violent shearing to the impact of selective breeding, and mutilation of young lambs, it’s important to approach its production with a mindful perspective. Undeniably, by supporting responsible and sustainable practices within the wool industry, we can work towards mitigating these concerns. This includes advocating for improved animal welfare standards, supporting eco-conscious farming methods, and choosing wool products from sources committed to ethical production.
Certifications to look for
When it comes to purchasing wool products, conscientious shoppers like us seek out certifications that provide evidence of environmentally friendly and ethical practices. There are several certifications to look out for, including:
- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): This certification ensures that the entire production process for organic fibres, including wool, meets strict environmental and social criteria.
- Organic Content Standard (OCS): The OCS certification verifies that a product contains a specified minimum of organic fibres, guaranteeing organic wool content.
- Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): The RWS is a comprehensive standard that addresses the welfare of sheep and the land they graze on. It ensures that wool is sourced from farms that follow best practices in animal husbandry and land management.
- ZQ Merino: This New Zealand-based certification focuses on merino wool and encompasses strict standards for animal welfare, environmental sustainability, and social responsibility.
- Demeter Biodynamic: This certification emphasizes a closed-loop system that nurtures the soil and respects the well-being of animals, making it a noteworthy choice for those seeking wool produced through holistic and regenerative agricultural practices.
- Cradle to Cradle (C2C): This certification evaluates products based on their entire life cycle, from design to recyclability, making it a robust indicator of a product’s eco-friendliness.
- Bluesign: Although not specific to wool, Bluesign is a holistic system that ensures sustainable and responsible production in the textile industry.
By seeking out these certifications, we can make an informed purchase decision and contribute to a more sustainable and ethical wool industry. These labels serve as beacons guiding us towards products that align with our values of environmental stewardship and animal welfare.
BRAND RECOMMENDATIONS
Zulu & Zephyr
Zulu & Zephyr is unwavering in its commitment to using only Wool and Alpaca, and biodegradable fibres derived from animal fleece. These materials are not only environmentally friendly but also carry certifications ensuring responsible sourcing in accordance with the highest international standards. Zulu & Zephyr proudly adheres to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ensuring that the wool they source comes from farms that respect the land and uphold the Five Freedoms of animal welfare:
- Freedom from hunger and thirst, offering easy access to fresh water and a nutritious diet to maintain health and vitality.
- Freedom from discomfort, providing an appropriate environment, including shelter and comfortable resting areas.
- Freedom from pain, injury, or disease, through preventive measures and prompt diagnosis and treatment.
- Freedom to express normal behaviour, affording ample space, proper facilities, and the company of the animal’s own kind.
- Freedom from fear and distress, through conditions and treatment that eliminate mental suffering.
As part of their commitment to environmental stewardship, Zulu & Zephyr became a proud member of 1% for the Planet in 2020 and are part of a global network of over 2,000 business members spanning more than 60 countries, all united by a common goal: safeguarding the future of our planet.
Since joining the 1% for the Planet movement in 2020, they’ve contributed to the Seed Indigenous Youth Climate Network, Karrkad Kanjdji Trust, as well as Thread Together and Worn for Good, aligning their efforts with those who share their dedication to preserving our planet.
Neu Nomads
Neu Nomads is committed to redefining the concept of sustainable and to the principles of sustainability, ethical production, and the empowerment of women, all while offering the luxury of high-quality, eco-conscious fashion at accessible prices.
Their mission, from their founders to their factory workers to their cherished customers, is to empower the ever-growing global community of women. 85% of their garments are meticulously crafted in a family-owned factory located in Delhi. This facility not only upholds impeccable working conditions but also extends healthcare benefits and compensation that significantly surpass the living wage.
Their Eco-Cashmere, a luxuriously soft yarn created by blending cotton and cashmere, is sourced from Mongolia and production takes place by a cooperative in Kathmandu, Nepal. This manufacturing process adheres to stringent standards, utilizing SGS lab-certified Mongolian origin yarns. The factory employs optical fibre analyser software to ensure the ideal diameter and length for each design. Their dyes are sourced from Switzerland, adhering to strict standards of eco-friendliness.
ALLBIRDS
Allbirds is an innovative sneaker company renowned for its commitment to sustainability. Founded by Tim Brown, a native of New Zealand, who possessed a deep appreciation for the exceptional qualities of merino wool, the company embarked on its mission. Brown wondered why such a remarkable and eco-friendly resource was virtually untapped in the footwear industry. Thus, with a sense of curiosity and wonder, the Allbirds journey commenced.
After extensive research and experimentation, Tim Brown joined forces with Joey Zwillinger, an engineer and renewables expert. Together, they revolutionized wool fabric tailored specifically for footwear. The result was the creation of an entirely new category of shoes inspired by nature’s materials and a steadfast commitment to producing superior products in a more responsible manner.
Today, Allbirds is a certified B Corporation that maintains high ethical standards for its wool sourcing, partnering with organizations like ZQ Merino to ensure that their wool is produced with rigorous adherence to farming, land management, and animal welfare guidelines.
They offer a range of options, including their Wool Runner sneakers and Wool Runner Mizzle sneakers, which are designed to withstand rain with their water-repellent thick wool, providing warmth and comfort even in cold weather.
In addition to their renowned sneakers, Allbirds has now expanded their product line to include clothing made from their premium merino wool.
Allbirds prioritizes responsible sourcing, ensuring that their materials are supplied by companies that commit to their stringent code of conduct, ensuring dignified and fair treatment of workers.
Furthermore, the company has set ambitious environmental goals, aiming to halve their carbon footprint by 2025 and ultimately reduce it to near zero by 2030. This commitment reflects their dedication to a sustainable and eco-conscious future.
santicler
At SANTICLER, style and sustainability seamlessly blend together as the company’s mission is to provide a distinctive alternative to the current marketplace offerings for fashion enthusiasts. Santicler’s parent company, Iconoclast Studio Inc, is dedicated to adhering to circular design principles and the creation of garments crafted from low-maintenance, eco-friendly materials derived from renewable sources. These materials are designed to be recyclable and biodegradable.
Within this endeavor, every European mill meticulously selected by the company upholds sustainable and ethical practices, including the humane treatment of animals and the avoidance of mulesing in the production of merino wool. All products boast the highest quality, certified standards, and an established traceable origin.
At privately owned factories located across the Transylvania region of Romania, an atmosphere of familial closeness prevails. Through a tight-knit partnership with the factory owners, they are revolutionizing the landscape of apparel production. Rather than manufacturing large quantities with a portion sold and wasted, the focus is on producing and fulfilling small-batch orders driven by specific demand, effectively eliminating surplus and minimizing waste.
Organic Basics
Rooted in the heart of Copenhagen, Organic Basics is more than just a fashion brand; it’s a resounding testament to ethical, comfortable, and sustainable clothing for everyone on Earth. Their philosophy centers on making essentials that are not only kind to the planet but also to all individuals. With a deep commitment to environmental stewardship, they meticulously select materials and fabrics that prioritize our planet’s well-being. Their partnerships extend exclusively to factories that share their vision of a minimized ecological footprint, and their designs are thoughtfully tailored to embrace diversity in body types.
Organic Basics’ knitwear collection offers a comprehensive solution for braving cold winter months. From cozy socks to warm sweaters, beanies, and scarves, they’ve got you covered.
What sets them apart is their incorporation of recycled wool products. By incorporating recycled materials, Organic Basics actively contributes to the reduction of water and energy consumption while diverting materials away from landfills, as well as reducing the environmental impact of virgin wool production.
This brand is a shining star in the realm of sustainable fashion and holds the prestigious B Corp certification, solidifying its commitment to responsible business practices. Not only do they produce exceptional clothing, but they also actively support various sustainable initiatives, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion industry and the planet.
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