Feature Photo Credit: Anastasia Shuraeva
As we step into 2025, it’s time to confront an uncomfortable truth: the fashion industry, once celebrated for its artistry and innovation, is in crisis. Fast fashion’s environmental and ethical failings have long been under scrutiny—polluting materials, overproduction, exploitative labor practices, and even animal cruelty. But the luxury sector, traditionally upheld as the gold standard of quality and exclusivity, is no saint either. Behind its glossy facade lies a growing entanglement with unsustainable practices, from toxic materials to sweatshop labour and mass production that undermines its very ethos.
This New Year calls for a radical reevaluation—not just of what we wear, but of the systems that produce it. Let’s unravel the threads of this industry-wide challenge and explore what needs to change and the ways in which we can be part of the solution.
ABOUT FAST FASHION
Fast fashion can be summarised as: inexpensive, trend-focused apparel manufactured rapidly and sold at extremely low prices. While the financial cost may appear minimal, the human and environmental impact is significant. The affordability of fast fashion is built on the backs of underpaid labourers, low-quality garments, and a relentless cycle of purchase, wear, and discard. This industry flourishes through a harmful business model that promotes excessive buying, minimal wearing, and quick disposal—all for the sake of profit.
Rapidly Evolving Trends
In the past, fashion brands meticulously planned their collections years ahead of time. Designers were the trendsetters, and changes occurred at a gradual pace. However, fast fashion has completely transformed this landscape, placing speed at the forefront. Today, brands produce new styles in just weeks, swiftly reacting to social media and celebrity influence. Social media plays a crucial role in maintaining this frenetic speed. Influencers and celebrities frequently showcase new outfits, prompting their followers to replicate those looks instantly. Brands not only respond to this demand but actively foster it, bombarding young consumers, especially Gen Z, with a continuous stream of new products.
This creates a self-reinforcing cycle: emerging trends necessitate quicker production, which in turn puts immense pressure on factories and workers to meet these demands, often at significant personal cost.
Fast Production
The continuous demand to stay in tune with trends places immense pressure on factories. In the UK, cities such as Leicester have emerged as centres for fast fashion manufacturing, yet they are also linked to numerous scandals. Workers often endure unstable and insecure employment, along with challenging working conditions and insufficient wages. Rapid production frequently leads to exploitation. Brands insist on extremely low-cost garments, forcing suppliers to compromise on quality. This situation results in workers receiving inadequate pay and fosters a production model that is unsustainable for both individuals and the environment.
Rapid Sales and Delivery
The temptation of affordable fashion is difficult to resist. In the UK, clothing consumption has surged—people now purchase 60% more clothing compared to 2000. Online searches for “cheap clothes” jumped by 46.3% during the first coronavirus lockdown, further propelling the fast fashion industry. Convenient payment solutions like Klarna enable consumers to delay payments, making it easier to spend beyond their means. Coupled with enticing delivery deals—such as Boohoo’s unlimited next-day delivery for a year at only £9.99—it’s no wonder fast fashion sales are on the rise.
Quick Turnaround
Fast fashion is designed for rapid obsolescence. On average, a piece of clothing is worn just 14 times before being tossed aside. For many young shoppers, an outfit feels outdated after just one or two wears. These items, often crafted from synthetic materials, are not meant to endure. They undergo minimal stress testing, utilise inexpensive fabrics, and swiftly end up in landfills—perpetuating an endless cycle.
THE ISSUE WITH FAST FASHION
The environmental impact of fast fashion is staggering. Annually, the industry uses 93 billion cubic meters of water—sufficient to satisfy the needs of five million individuals—and is responsible for 20% of industrial water pollution stemming from textile treatment and dyeing processes. Additionally, its carbon footprint is alarming, accounting for up to 10% of global carbon emissions—surpassing the combined emissions from aviation and shipping.
The Plastic Issue
Fast fashion heavily relies on plastic. Approximately 69% of all textile fibres are sourced from fossil fuels, with polyester being the most prevalent. In 2015, the production of polyester alone released over 700 million tonnes of carbon dioxide, which is comparable to the annual emissions produced by 180 coal-fired power plants. Alarmingly, these figures are projected to nearly double by 2030.
Additionally, plastic clothing contributes to microfiber pollution—tiny particles that contaminate our oceans and disrupt ecosystems. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the textile industry discharges half a million tonnes of microfibers into the ocean each year, which is equivalent to 50 billion plastic bottles. These microfibers have been discovered in locations as remote as the peak of Mount Everest and even in the placentas of unborn babies.
The Illusion of Recycled Plastics
Some brands promote their use of recycled materials as a move towards sustainability (ie. H&M). However, the actual impact is often minimal. A 2021 report indicated that only 4% of fabrics used by prominent fast fashion brands were recycled. Moreover, transforming PET bottles into clothing removes these materials from closed-loop recycling systems, hastening their disposal in landfills.
Related – The Truth About Recycling
Textile Waste
The fast fashion sector generates 92 million tonnes of textile waste each year. A significant portion of this waste is either incinerated or discarded, frequently in developing nations like Ghana and Kenya, leading to severe environmental consequences. Shockingly, some of this waste consists of brand-new clothing lines that are thrown away due to becoming outdated.
Wages and Working Conditions
To maintain low prices, fast fashion brands often compromise on worker welfare. Numerous factories, whether located in Bangladesh, Vietnam, or even Leicester, fail to provide workers with a living wage. Boohoo, a major player in fast fashion, has been consistently criticised for paying workers in Leicester less than half the minimum wage and exposing them to unacceptable working conditions.
Despite ongoing efforts for improvement, progress is excruciatingly slow. At the current pace, it may take up to 75 years for all fashion companies to ensure living wages at even a single factory per brand. Meanwhile, gender-based violence and harassment are prevalent in many supply chains, with women disproportionately affected by exploitation.
The Climate Consequences of Clothing
At COP28, the fashion industry finally took centre stage in discussions about climate change. Brands like H&M and Bestseller committed to investing in renewable energy initiatives in countries such as Bangladesh. However, these efforts are merely a small fraction of the estimated $1 trillion required to decarbonise the industry by 2050. The journey ahead remains challenging, but there is an increasing awareness of the fashion industry’s role in addressing climate change.
HOW ABOUT LUXURY FASHION?
Luxury fashion traditionally represented the opposite of fast fashion—characterised by timelessness, exclusivity, and sustainability. However, the distinctions have become increasingly ambiguous. Nowadays, many luxury brands adopt practices similar to those of fast fashion, such as monthly product releases, micro-seasonal collections, and trends driven by social media. Even more troubling is the declining quality that once epitomised luxury. Brands are prioritising cost-cutting over craftsmanship, opting for cheaper materials and mass production, thus contributing to overconsumption and waste. Exclusivity has also diminished; some luxury brands have even taken to destroying unsold inventory to uphold their reputation, as highlighted by Burberry’s notorious incineration incident in 2018.
Both luxury and fast fashion must address their contributions to the larger issues facing the industry. The future of fashion, whether luxury or fast, hinges on a commitment to sustainability at all stages—from design to production to end-of-life solutions.
An open letter from us to Burberry. Are you with us? Tag @burberry and retweet. #burnberry pic.twitter.com/olIDxcXkfj
— ThredUp (@ThredUp) July 25, 2018
THE SOLUTION TO THE FASHION PROBLEM
The current path of the fashion industry is unsustainable, and while it’s critical for industry leaders to drive systemic changes supported by government regulations, there are also practical steps we can take as individuals to help address the issue. These personal actions not only lessen the environmental footprint of our wardrobes but also foster a healthier and more creative connection with fashion.
Borrow
One of the simplest and most sustainable methods to revitalise your wardrobe is by borrowing clothes and accessories from friends or family. This approach reduces waste, saves money, and often brings a sentimental touch that enhances your outfit.
- For special events like weddings or formal dinners, borrowing a dress or suit from someone you know is a fantastic choice. It removes the need to purchase something new that may only be worn once.
- Heading to a chilly destination but residing in a warm area? Instead of buying a winter coat for a single trip, borrow one from a friend or family member. Likewise, lend out your seasonal items when someone you know could use them. Suggest a reciprocal arrangement by sharing your own items in exchange.
- Swapping handbags, belts, or statement jewellery with friends keeps your style fresh without incurring extra costs.
- Your parents’ or grandparents’ closets often hold hidden gems of unique vintage pieces that can be modernised for a contemporary look. Incorporating these items adds character and history to your wardrobe. Consider combining vintage pieces with modern accessories for a fashionable twist.
- Trends shift rapidly. If you spot a trendy item you love, check with a friend first to see if they have something similar before investing in a fast-fashion version. This will prevent unnecessary spending on items that may quickly fall out of fashion.
Mend & Repair
Taking care of your clothing through proper repair not only prolongs its lifespan but also adds a personal touch. By learning basic mending techniques or utilising services like The Seam, which specialises in clothing care and repair, you can make a notable impact. Way more than you think.
- A small tear or hole doesn’t have to spell the end for a garment. Simple patching and stitching can effectively extend the life of your favourite pieces.
- If a garment no longer fits as it should, tailoring or minor alterations can breathe new life into it.
- For instance, adjusting the hem of a dress or taking in the waist of pants can make it your size again.
- With services like The Seam, obtaining professional repairs is also straightforward, ensuring high-quality results that make your clothes look as good as new. Plus, you’re probably surrounded by local mending shops wherever you are, so just have a scout around and you’ll find plenty of hidden artists. Consider investing in repairs for the high-quality pieces you truly love.
Rewear
Rather than constantly hunting for new garments, focus on restyling and rethinking what you already have in your wardrobe. Creative rewearing not only minimises your environmental footprint but also allows you to explore your personal style in fresh ways.
- A summer dress doesn’t need to be tucked away during the colder months. Combine it with a turtleneck or long-sleeve top underneath, add some tights, and you’ve created a winter ensemble.
- Think creatively by wearing your clothes in unexpected ways. For instance, try donning a button-up shirt backwards for a trendy, open-back style, or use it as a light jacket over a tank top.
- Belts are a versatile styling tool that can elevate any outfit. Consider using a belt to enhance jeans and a sweater, pairing it with a French tuck for a polished look. Matching the belt colour to your shoes or bag ensures a cohesive style. Belts also add intention to casual outfits, polish trousers, and bring texture to dresses. For a bold statement, try layering multiple belts, as worn by Bella Hadid (below).
re-styling
- Outfit sandwiching is a styling technique that simplifies dressing by matching the top and bottom in colour, texture, or proportion, while contrasting with a different middle piece. For instance, pair a black top and shoes with white bottoms for a cohesive look.
- Revamp a statement blazer by pairing it with different bottoms—opt for jeans for a casual outing, a pencil skirt for the office, or tailored trousers for an evening event. Tip: Utilise accessories like belts or scarves to completely alter the look.
- Switching up your accessories can transform your outfit’s vibe. Try layering necklaces for an eclectic or Maximalist style, adding a pop of colour with shoes or a handbag, or elevating your look with a bold hat.
- A large scarf can do more than just adorn your neck. Wear it as a top, or a skirt, or attach it to your bag for a surprising burst of colour.
- A plain white shirt can be suitable for both formal and casual events. Pair it with trousers and a blazer for work, then switch to jeans and sneakers for a laid-back evening. Changing your shoes and jewellery can effortlessly transition your look from day to night so you don’t need to change outfit more than once a day.
and finally....
By adopting these practices, you not only tackle the negative effects of overconsumption but also foster a more thoughtful and resourceful approach to fashion. Together, through borrowing, repairing, and reimagining, we can redefine our relationship with clothing and pave the way toward a more sustainable future. Although we are bombarded by ads making us want to buy more and more, we can resist and take a different approach to fashion. It all stars with us.