Having recently rekindled my love of yoga I was super keen to sign up for another retreat, this time at the boutique homestay Topas Riverside Lodge in Sapa. Topas Riverside Lodge is the sister property to Topas Ecolodge and is situated in the wild jungles of Hoang Lien National Park, connected to Nam Cang Village by a shaky wooden suspension bridge across the river; a remote area beyond the well-trodden tourist paths of Sapa and relatively untouched by modern-day mass tourism.
YOGA RETREAT AT TOPAS RIVERSIDE LODGE
LAO CAI, SAPA, VIETNAM
The lodge itself had recently been renovated in a traditional Nordic minimalistic style of interior design featuring a neutral-heavy colour palette, natural lighting, sleek modern furniture with gentle lines and subtle curves, decluttered spaces and warm toned wooden features. The yoga sessions were on the first floor of the building facing the open balcony and overlooking the gushing river. Overall, the lodge was warm and cosy and the staff could not have been more helpful and welcoming.
What appealed to me most about the retreat was that it offered not only the opportunity to rejuvenate the mind and body through the daily yoga, but it also enabled us to explore an authentic village and the culture of the local Red Dzao minority people, trek through the woodlands and breathtaking mountain scenery and forage for medicinal herbs. Our group was met by Ms. Phu who led our trek into the bamboo forests and wild jungles of Nam Cang to learn about foraging techniques that have been used by the Red Dzao for hundreds of years and how to distinguish between some of the most important herbs used for medicinal purposes. Every gatherer in the tribe can apparently recognize a minimum of 50 different herbs and plant species, with some able to name more than 200!
Ms. Phu attributed her vibrant health and youthful skin to a daily herbal bath, so I tested this out for myself. These baths are known for their therapeutic benefits, especially aiding in recovery after child-birth, circulation issues, skin conditions, and symptoms from colds and flu like migraines and fevers.
After two days of exploring the village, seeing the local paper and jewelry artisans at work and trekking around the lush nature of the National Park, it was bliss to soak in the large wooden traditional herbal bath back at the Red Dzao Bathhouse at the lodge.
On the final day of our retreat after and early morning yoga session, we travelled to the renowned boutique Topas Ecolodge for lunch and to swim in the heated saltwater infinity pool overlooking the mountain peaks and stunning rice terraced of the spectacular Muong Hoa valley.
TOPAS ECOLODGE ECO CREDENTIALS
Topas Ecolodge is situated in pristine natural surroundings on top of a beautiful hillside deep in the mountains of Hoang Lien National Park, certified as a “Unique Lodge” by National Geographic and nominated as one of the World’s best places to stay if you care about the environment.
SUSTAINABILITY & COMMUNITY
Sustainability and community have always been at the forefront of Topas Ecolodge’s mission. The business is based on sustainable hotel operation values that ensure minimum impact on the surrounding environment while offering guests a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in local culture and communities. By working with DANIDA (Denmark’s development cooperation, under the Ministry of Foreign Affairs), the lodge has become a showcase of sustainable tourism in remote areas.
Few Ecolodges, from the most luxurious to the most basic, can claim to be 100% ‘sustainable’ and despite the challenges of location and local conditions, Topas Ecolodge continuously strive to operate in a sustainable way, providing a positive impact on local communities through funding and education. When Topas Ecolodge first opened, they attempted to operate entirely on solar electricity, but the inconsistent supply meant they eventually had to switch to the hydropower station in the valley. Accommodation however contains a minimal number of electronic devices and are outfitted with energy efficient bulbs.
Topas Ecolodge employs around 100 people, almost exclusively from local villages. The staff are provided with accommodation, consisting of two houses built on-site. This means they do not endanger themselves by traveling late at night to their remote villages. They are also provided with the space and facilities to grow vegetables and cook their own food.
SUSTAINABILITY & COMMUNITY
All goods and products are sourced locally whenever possible and restaurant ingredients are based primarily on local, seasonal ingredients, the majority of which are bought at the local market, shops, or directly from nearby farmers in order to bring economic benefits to the regional communities or are grown in the lodge’s own organic garden.
As part of their commitment to community development Topas Ecolodge have begun to establish and maintain mutually beneficial relationships with local farmers in the area around the lodge to regulate fertilizer and pesticide use and to eventually enable them to move towards serving wholly organic produce.
Previously, ingredients used in the lodge restaurant was purchased at the market in Sapa where it was impossible to monitor the amount and type of fertilizer and pesticides used.
Citrus fruit used in the restaurant comes from a local fruit farm located close to Thanh Phu.
The farm supplies and delivers all lemons and oranges to the lodge, which are grown without pesticides, using only ecological fertilizer which the farmers make themselves from grass and manure.
The locally-inspired farm-to-table cuisine is a fusion of European-styled plates with a distinct Vietnam influence in regards to flavours and types of dishes.
PROMOTING EDUCATION
As well as supporting staff with English language skills and hospitality training, Topas Ecolodge are also the major sponsor of the local school and supply books and writing materials throughout the year.
Sharing knowledge and experiences gained from operating in Sapa is also important to Topas Ecolodge, therefore they often cooperate with other organizations and schools, such as the United Nations International School of Hanoi and Hanoi Women’s Club, to further educate the local and expat community in big cities on how best to protect the environment and ethnic minority peoples of northern Vietnam.
OTHER INITIATIVES
The lodge also have their own waste incinerator and use a glass crusher which crushes glass into a fine sand which can be used to mix concrete for construction needs and maintenance repair, allowing them to recycle 100% of their glass.
The lodge also cooperate with local farmers to feed their livestock using restaurant leftovers and ensuring all recyclable materials are distributed to local people to reuse in their households.
Amongst other initiatives is their constructed wetland, vital in wastewater treatment from their kitchen and laundry. This works by purifying the wastewater generated at Topas Ecolodge through massive sand and plant filters, ensuring the resort does not impact the local environment in a damaging way.
Furthermore, this system is really successful in avoiding unnatural algae growth which can really negatively affect any ecosystem and have an organic filtration system in their septic tanks to ensure all bungalow waste is treated and purified as well.
TOPAS TRAVEL
The retreat was organised by Topas Travel, which is a Danish company established in 1973, that seeks to offer authentic tourism experiences off the beaten track. With adventure, sustainability and cultural sensitivity at its core, Topas Travel is for those wishing to leave the crowds of mass tourism behind and discover the real culture and people of the places they visit. Find them at:
N° 1B, Alley 12/2/5 Dang Thai Mai St, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam. Phone: +84 (0)24 3715 1005. For more information visit [email protected]