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Cultured Meat: The Good, The Bad, The Weird & The Ugly

Last year, whilst visiting Barnstaple, a charming town in North Devon, for a short getaway, I came across a rather interesting statue outside the Guildhall. I hadn’t intended to explore the world of food technology, but I unexpectedly found myself at a talk hosted by @what.is.cultured.meat.  The discussion was all about lab-grown meat—what it is, why it matters, and where it’s headed. Needless to say, it was eye-opening. Afterwards I had a chat with the host and looked at some of the work created by those that attended the free art workshop.

Curiosity had got the best of me, and over the following months, I embarked on a research journey to understand this futuristic approach to food. And now, I’m bringing my findings to you—so you, too, can form your own opinion about cultured meat.

WHAT IS CULTIVATED MEAT?

At its essence, cultivated meat—often referred to as cultured meat—represents genuine animal meat produced directly from animal cells. This innovative process eliminates the necessity for raising and slaughtering livestock while still preserving the taste, texture, and nutritional qualities of conventional meat.

This concept is not entirely new. In 2013, Dutch scientist Mark Post revealed the first lab-grown burger during a live television broadcast. Fast forward to the present, and more than 150 companies worldwide are striving to bring cultured meat to consumers, backed by billions of dollars in investments. Researchers are merging knowledge from cell biology, tissue engineering, and food science to transform what once appeared to be science fiction into a tangible reality.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND IT

The process of making cultivated meat starts by extracting stem cells from an animal, usually through a minimally invasive biopsy. These cells are then transferred into bioreactors—essentially advanced vats—where they are nourished with an oxygen-rich culture medium filled with essential nutrients like amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. Over the course of several weeks, the cells multiply and differentiate into muscle, fat, and connective tissues, ultimately being processed into consumable meat products. Additionally, some companies are utilising this method to produce milk, foie gras, and other animal-derived items without causing harm to animals too.

Optimising Cell Selection

Lab-grown meat can be made using different types of cells, but more research is needed to improve access to suitable cell lines and understand how the choice of cells affects the production process. The type of cells used plays a big role in shaping how the meat is grown.

The best starting cells are those that can renew themselves and develop into different types of meat tissue, like muscle, fat, and connective tissue. These include stem cells, which vary in their ability to transform into different cell types. Some, like embryonic stem cells, can become almost any type of cell, while others, like muscle stem cells, are more specialised.

Cells with greater flexibility, such as embryonic and induced pluripotent stem cells, grow quickly and can keep renewing indefinitely. However, they need careful guidance to become the right kind of cells, such as muscle or fat. On the other hand, adult stem cells grow more slowly and aren’t naturally immortal, but they are easier to direct into the needed tissue types. Because of these differences, companies growing lab meat may use different methods and timelines depending on the type of cells they start with.

Global Research Driving Industrial-Scale Cultivated Meat

As of now, the cultivated meat industry has yet to establish a single optimal starting cell type. It remains uncertain whether a consensus will form as the industry evolves or if varying starting cell types will be favoured based on different bioprocess aspects or desired end products. The field of cultivated meat is built upon decades of accumulated expertise in cell culture, stem cell biology, tissue engineering, fermentation, and chemical and bioprocess engineering.

Around the globe, hundreds of companies and academic laboratories are conducting research in these areas to create a new paradigm for producing commodity meat products at an industrial scale.

THE GOOD

One of the most compelling advantages of cultured meat lies in its potential to positively impact the environment. Research indicates it could lower land use by up to 90% and decrease greenhouse gas emissions by as much as 92%—provided it is produced using renewable energy sources. Additional benefits include:

  • Elimination of antibiotics, minimizing the risk of antibiotic resistance.
  • Reduced risk of foodborne illnesses due to no contact with pathogens from live animals.
  • The capability to produce specific cuts of meat without generating waste.
  • The potential to address concerns regarding animal cruelty in factory farming.

With the global meat industry reaching a value of $1.7 trillion, even a small shift toward lab-grown options could lead to significant reductions in deforestation, loss of biodiversity, and the practices of industrial slaughter.

Photo Credit:Upside Foods

THE BAD

Despite its promise, cultivated meat faces several challenges. One significant issue is cost—although prices have decreased from the initial $330,000 burger, production remains costly. Developing affordable and scalable production methods is still ongoing. Additional challenges include:

  • Health uncertainties: As cultured meat is a relatively new innovation, its long-term health impacts are not yet fully understood.
  • Environmental concerns: While it may reduce land usage, the energy-intensive nature of production could still lead to environmental issues.
  • Regulatory unknowns: Countries are still in the process of establishing regulations to ensure that lab-grown meat is safe for consumers.
  • Taste and texture challenges: Although scientists are making progress, replicating the complex experience of traditional meat remains difficult and might require additional ingredients.
  • Consumer acceptance: Many individuals are sceptical about lab-grown food and may be reluctant to transition from conventional meat.

THE WEIRD

One of the most intriguing aspects of cultured meat lies in the science behind its creation. Cells are meticulously chosen for their capacity to grow and differentiate effectively. Some companies are experimenting with embryonic stem cells due to their rapid division rates, while others opt for adult stem cells, which grow more slowly but are more reliable as we have extensively gone through earlier on.

There’s also discussion around engineering cells to enhance their growth. While some companies claim they will avoid genetic modification, others are investigating methods to adjust cell behaviour for improved efficiency. This brings up ethical and regulatory dilemmas—how much modification is acceptable?

In addition to meat, cellular agriculture is being utilised to produce a variety of products, including leather, wood alternatives, and animal-free dairy. The concept of lab-grown foie gras or alternatives to human breast milk is both unusual and revolutionary.

THE UGLY

While cultured meat promotes itself as cruelty-free, it still faces certain ethical challenges. Some production methods utilise fetal bovine serum (FBS), sourced from unborn calves, leading to questions about whether this meat can genuinely be considered “slaughter-free.” Although efforts are underway to phase out FBS from the process, this remains a work in progress.

Additionally, concerns arise regarding the control of this technology. With significant investments from large corporations in the cultured meat sector, will it transform into an affordable and accessible alternative, or will it merely serve as a means for a select few companies to monopolise the food industry?

WHEN WILL CULTIVATED MEAT HIT SUPERMARKETS?

We’re nearing a significant milestone, and in many ways, it’s already underway. In 2020, Singapore made history by being the first nation to approve a cultivated chicken product for sale. They have since been selling GOOD Meat in their supermarkets. The U.S. followed suit in 2023, with companies like UPSIDE Foods receiving FDA clearance. Meanwhile, other countries are at different stages of the regulatory process. In the UK, Hoxton Farms and Ivy Farm Technologies are both very likely to hit the supermarket shelves soon. On the other hand, the French cultivated meat start-up Vital Meat is now seeking approval in countries such as the UK and Singapore rather than the EU, due to the stricter rules around cultivated meat.

Photo Credit: GOOD Meat

The next hurdle is scaling up production. Transitioning from small batches to mass production will involve addressing challenges related to cost, efficiency, and consumer acceptance. While this process will take time, many experts anticipate that within the next decade, cultivated meat products will be available alongside traditional meat in grocery stores.

Photo Credit: Vital Meat

Cultivated meat stands out as one of the most thrilling—and debated—food innovations of our era. It offers potential benefits for sustainability, food security, and animal welfare; however, numerous challenges must be addressed before it can be widely adopted.

As I keep a close watch on the evolution of this industry, I invite you to remain informed and open to new ideas. Whether you find yourself curious or doubtful, one fact is undeniable: the landscape of food is transforming, and cultured meat is set to redefine our perceptions of what we eat.

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