Feature Photo Credit: Francesco Ungaro
Ever since I discovered Notpla, the inspiring London-based startup creating seaweed-based packaging alternatives, I’ve been utterly fascinated by the power of this magnificent ocean plant. What began as a curiosity quickly evolved into an obsession (the good kind!). One that’s led me down a winding rabbit hole of research and discovery into how seaweed and algae are transforming the future of fashion. The deeper I’ve looked, the more promise I’ve seen. Seaweed is gentle on the planet, surprisingly versatile, and packed with hidden potential. And the best part? We’re only just scratching the surface.
WHAT EXACTLY ARE SEAWEED, ALGAE, & BIO-BASED MATERIALS?
Before exploring the latest innovations, it’s essential to clarify what I mean by “algae” and “bio-based”. Algae is a broad term encompassing a wide variety of aquatic organisms that can perform photosynthesis. This includes both microalgae – microscopic, single-celled organisms such as spirulina – and macroalgae, commonly known as seaweed, which includes varieties like kelp, bladderwrack, and dulse.
Seaweed thrives in marine environments, requiring no fresh water, fertilisers, or land to grow—making it one of the most sustainable raw materials on the planet. Certain species, like red macroalgae, not only absorb significant amounts of carbon but also contribute to restoring biodiversity in marine ecosystems. One standout example is Asparagopsis, which was among the first seaweeds tested for agricultural applications, yielding shockingly positive results. Repeated experiments have confirmed that even small amounts of Asparagopsis in livestock feed can dramatically reduce methane emissions while improving feed efficiency. Controlled farm studies in both Australia and the U.S. have consistently shown methane reductions of over 80%.
These advances have led to innovative solutions like FutureFeed, which harnesses red macroalgae to tackle climate impacts from livestock. As a bio-based material—derived from biological sources such as seaweed, algae, corn, or bamboo—seaweed represents a promising convergence of environmental science, agriculture, and sustainability.
How Seaweed is Redefining Fashion
When incorporated into textiles, seaweed presents an exciting alternative to fossil fuel-based synthetics (like polyester and nylon) and resource-intensive natural fibres (like conventional cotton). In the fashion industry, seaweed is being transformed into fibres, dyes, foams, leathers, inks and even packaging (hello, Notpla!). These innovations represent a compelling intersection of science, design, and sustainability: a powerful domain where our oceans and wardrobes may finally achieve harmony.
THE BENEFITS OF SEAWEED
Let’s start with the basics: why seaweed? The advantages are vast, encompassing environmental, economic, and health-related aspects.
Firstly, seaweed grows rapidly and regeneratively. Certain species can achieve growth rates of up to half a meter each day, requiring no irrigation or fertilisers, as I previously mentioned. Unlike conventional crops, it doesn’t demand arable land, making it a fantastic alternative amid growing land-use pressures.
Secondly, it serves as a natural carbon sink. A 2019 study revealed that seaweed can absorb up to 20 times more CO₂ than terrestrial plants. This means that cultivating seaweed is not only carbon-neutral but can also be carbon-negative, contributing to the fight against climate change.
Thirdly, it is biodegradable and non-toxic. When utilised in materials such as SeaCell (a natural fibre produced by combining seaweed with a wood pulp solution, primarily using Knotted Wrack seaweed from Icelandic fjords) or KeelLabs’s Kelsun (a fibre made from kelp, a type of seaweed, and designed to be fully biodegradable), seaweed-based fabrics decompose quickly at the end of their life cycle without contaminating soil or water with microplastics. This is in stark contrast to synthetic fibres, which represent 35% of all microplastics found in the ocean.
And finally, seaweed offers remarkable versatility. Depending on its processing, it can be transformed into yarn, crafted into soft leather-like materials, or used to dye and treat textiles with antimicrobial or moisture-wicking properties.
Seaweed’s Expanding Role in Fashion Innovation
It may sound like something out of science fiction, but it’s already happening and this is just the beginning. The fashion potential of seaweed reaches well beyond fibres, extending into dyes, foams, trims, packaging, performance wear and even wellness-enhancing clothing.
Fibres and Fabrics
Let’s kick things off with textiles. SeaCell, a fibre derived from sustainably harvested Icelandic seaweed and eucalyptus, is being utilised in everything from athleisure to underwear. Brands like Pangaia and Duvalli choose it not only for its eco-friendly attributes but also for its natural softness and potential health benefits, such as skin-soothing minerals and antioxidants that remain in the fabric after processing. Pangaia for their clothing collection, Duvalli for their mattresses.
Meanwhile, Keel Labs’ Kelsun is emerging as a highly promising, scalable fibre option. Made entirely from kelp polymers, it requires minimal land, energy, and chemicals. Its versatility and biodegradability make it a compelling alternative to both cotton and synthetic materials in the long run. The ultimate goal? Clothing that is entirely seaweed-based, wearable, durable, and compostable. It has already graced the runways thanks to collaborations with brands like Stella McCartney and backing from H&M.
Leather Alternatives
Among the most experimental (yet thrilling) applications is seaweed-based leather. Startups like Alga Leather and design studios in the Netherlands and Scandinavia are experimenting with flexible, durable biomaterials created entirely from algae or kelp-based biopolymers. These materials can be finished to resemble everything from soft calfskin to textured snake print, without the cruelty associated with animal products or the pollution linked to plastics.
Foams and Soles
Algae-based foams are already making their mark in footwear, with companies like Adidas (in collaboration with Parley), Merrell and Vivobarefoot leading the charge. The company Bloom produces high-performance flexible foam using harvested algae biomass, significantly reducing the reliance on petroleum-based EVA foams. These algae foams not only offer enhanced environmental performance but also maintain comfort and durability, becoming increasingly popular in sneakers, sandals, and sports gear.
Dyes and Pigments
Algae-based dyes are addressing one of fashion’s most pressing issues: water pollution. Traditional dyeing methods consume vast amounts of water and release toxic chemicals into waterways. Enter Algaeing, which produces vibrant, non-toxic textile dyes from algae biomass. Their approach reportedly decreases water usage by 98%, energy consumption by 80%, and eliminates the need for harmful mordants or fixatives.
Living Ink, another innovator in algae-based pigments, started by creating carbon-negative ink for packaging and is now exploring uses in clothing printing, branding, and textile patterning. Imagine prints made from algae that are harmless to the planet—they’re closer to reality than you might think.
Threads, Buttons, and Trims
Innovators are even delving into seaweed-derived components for garment trims. Biobased threads, fasteners, and interfacing materials are being prototyped to make fully compostable garments a reality, not just the fabric but every detail, including buttons crafted from algae-based bioplastics.
Packaging and Hangtags
Packaging presents another vast opportunity. Companies like Notpla, Sway, and Zerocircle are utilising seaweed to create dissolvable garment bags, shipping envelopes, and labels that biodegrade in marine or composting environments. These innovative solutions replace petroleum-based polybags that contribute to landfill and ocean pollution after a single use.
Wellness Wear & Smart Textiles
Seaweed is also making its way into the realm of “bio-functional” clothing. Certain seaweed-based fibres retain trace nutrients and antioxidants, which can be absorbed by the skin while wearing the garments. In Margate, Haeckels is using locally harvested seaweed in skincare, tapping into its natural antioxidant and healing properties. Think of it as a fusion of activewear and skincare. Although research is still ongoing, brands are beginning to highlight seaweed’s potential in wellness-oriented clothing for athletes, maternity wear, and sleepwear.
Concept Fashion & Artwear
Artists and fashion designers are pushing the boundaries of seaweed in conceptual ways. London-based Jessie von Curry creates sculptural garments from dried seaweed sheets. In Paris, Studio Blond & Bieber has developed algae inks for avant-garde fashion pieces. These creations are not only visually striking—they spark conversations about biomaterials and our relationship with nature, prompting questions like: What if your clothing were alive? What if it could return harmlessly to the earth?
and finally....
There’s still work to do. Seaweed-based fibres remain niche, expensive and technically challenging to scale. Most garments still rely on blending algae fibres with cotton or other materials. But as more investment flows into this space, and as climate pressure mounts, scaling seems inevitable. The positive signs are there: significant funding rounds, growing consumer awareness, and the support of major fashion houses. If paired with transparent lifecycle assessments and ethical seaweed harvesting practices, this material could very well become a cornerstone of circular fashion. And honestly, I hope it does.