Feature Photo Credit: Vivienne Austin
If you’ve been here a while, you’ll know I’m endlessly fascinated by people who sit at the intersection of craft, creativity and deep responsibility. People who don’t just talk about “sustainability” as a buzzword, but quietly build their entire practice around it.
So when I got the chance to interview British fashion designer and dear friend Vivíenne Austin (founder of Scarlet Destiny® and author of the Fashion + Design Word Search Book: For Fashion Lovers and Creative Rebels), I knew this conversation was going to be special.
Vivienne’s world is one where zero-waste pattern cutting, upcycling, vegetable-tanned leather, and rebellious thinking coexist. She has worked in fast fashion, walked away from it, built her own label, returned to study, and now sits in that fascinating space between traditional craft and the future of fashion. Below, I’m sharing some of the highlights from our conversation.
Q. Vivienne, can you tell us a little about your background: what first drew you to fashion, and when did sustainability become part of that journey?
“I have loved fashion for as long as I can remember. When I was a child, my mother used to take me to a small boutique that stocked beautiful collections from Paris… That experience was my first introduction to craftsmanship and the idea that clothes could hold meaning.
I started making clothes at around 13, including my own school uniform. As a teenager, I practically lived in charity shops and vintage markets, hunting for treasures… I often bought something in the morning, transformed it and wore it out clubbing that same evening. I was an early adopter long before I even knew the phrase.
I studied locally at first… then secured a place at Central Saint Martins, moved to London and finally found my tribe. It was a heady time in the early 80s…
Sustainability entered the picture when I began to understand the impact of the industry, long before I ever studied it formally. It began with instinct rather than terminology… Returning to study for my MA in Fashion Futures gave those instincts structure. It pushed me to rethink how we design, how we consume and how we communicate the value of fashion and craft. That is where the seeds of Scarlet Destiny first took root.”
a note from me.....
I love how much of Vivienne’s “sustainability” began as instinct: discomfort with waste, an attraction to craft, a refusal to accept disposability as normal. Long before the language existed, the values were already there.
Q. Was there a specific moment or experience that made you rethink the way fashion is traditionally produced?
“In the 80s I worked in what we now call the fast fashion industry, which was the only part of the industry that actually paid… The quality was poor, the pace was relentless, and the labour practices were questionable at best. It felt completely at odds with the craft and creativity that initially drew me to fashion.
Working in fast fashion showed me very quickly that I did not want to be part of that world… I created a clubwear brand and sold my collections throughout the UK. I also had two retail stores and sold to independent retailers in New York, Japan, Australia, Germany and more.
I was producing everything locally in my studio on Brick Lane, and I began experimenting with British-made materials as well as recycled materials…
I also used deadstock, but back then, trying to sell limited-edition pieces made from reclaimed materials was almost impossible. Sustainability was not part of the vocabulary at the time. But that experience showed me that fashion did not have to follow the traditional model. You could make things differently. You could work responsibly. You could build your own system.
I was producing everything locally in my studio on Brick Lane, and I began experimenting with British-made materials as well as recycled materials…
Q. How would you describe your philosophy as a designer today?
“My philosophy is simple. Design with intention, respect and a generous dose of rebellion”.
“Craft is at the centre of everything I do. I care about slow, thoughtful making that values the hand, the material, and the people involved… For me, sustainability is not an add-on. It is the starting point. I do not believe in creating for the sake of it. Every piece must have a purpose…
I enjoy challenging expectations of what fashion should look like… My aim is to help people update and elevate what they already own rather than constantly buy more. In the end, my philosophy is about creating future heirlooms. Bold, intelligent design that feels good to wear and good to stand behind.”
Q. Many fashion brands want to “be more sustainable” but don’t know where to start. What’s the first step?
“The first step is accepting that you cannot fix everything at once… Real progress starts with understanding your supply chain. Who is making your product, where it is made and what compromises sit beneath the surface. Transparency has to come before transformation.
Small brands face their own unique challenges… You quickly realise you can never compete with high-volume giants. That is why thoughtful choices matter even more at a small scale, along with being open about why your pricing reflects those decisions.
Another crucial step is knowing why your brand exists in the first place… If the motivation is ego or trend-chasing, sustainability will never stick. A brand needs a reason to be here.
So the first step is clarity. Know your impact, own it and improve it gradually. Sustainability grows from consistent, grounded action, not from grand declarations with no follow-through.”
Q. Can you explain zero-waste pattern cutting in simple terms?
“Zero-waste pattern cutting is a method of designing patterns so that every piece fits together like a puzzle and nothing is thrown away… In a typical factory, approximately 15% of the fabric becomes waste before the garment is even stitched. Zero-waste forces designers to think differently… The limitations become part of the creative process rather than an obstacle.
I am not a full zero-waste practitioner, but the philosophy influences the way I work. In my own practice, I use very high-quality vegetable-tanned leather, so wasting it is never an option. I keep my offcuts and turn them into smaller items… For me, zero-waste is as much a mindset as a technique. It teaches you to value your materials and make deliberate choices rather than defaulting to wasteful habits.”
Q. What are some of the biggest misconceptions about sustainable or zero-waste design?
“One of the biggest misconceptions is the idea that sustainable fashion has to look boring… Sustainability does not come with a uniform. It can be sharp, sculptural, colourful or completely futuristic”.
“Another persistent myth is that zero-waste design is simply about saving scraps. In reality, it is a far more technical approach that begins at the pattern stage… It requires a different mindset and a willingness to push past traditional pattern shapes.
There is also confusion around pricing. Many assume sustainable fashion is expensive for no reason, yet you can still buy a high street garment for the price of a sandwich… If something is that cheap, someone is paying for it, and it is rarely the brand.
Finally, there is the perfection myth… Nobody is perfect, and nobody ever will be. Sustainability is a continual practice built on honesty, transparency and improvement.”
Q. Beyond pattern making, what role does upcycling play in modern fashion?
“Upcycling is one of the most powerful tools in modern fashion because it challenges the idea that creativity relies on constant newness… In a world overwhelmed by textile waste, that shift is not simply helpful; it is necessary.
A common misconception is that upcycling should look raw or improvised. It does not. Upcycling can be tailored, sculptural or luxurious. The key is to approach reclaimed materials with the same respect you would give a new fabric. The secret is editing… The material presents the challenge, but the designer holds the vision.
For me, upcycling is both a responsibility and a creative boost. It proves that fashion can be inventive without being wasteful and that good design comes from intention, not excess.”
Q. Do you think there is still resistance within the industry to adopting sustainable methods?
“Yes, there is resistance, and much of it comes from the old mindset that fast fashion refuses to release… That approach makes no sense on a finite planet.
A deeper issue is that the dominant capitalist model prioritises growth above everything else… When profit depends on selling more every year, sustainability becomes inconvenient rather than essential. There is also a fear of transparency… Once a brand opens its supply chain, it has to face the reality of its practices. Consumers play a part too. People have been conditioned to believe clothing should cost less than a sandwich… The real cost of labour and materials has been completely disconnected from the price tag.
The industry knows exactly how to change. It simply has to choose progress over profit, and too many brands are still refusing to make that choice.”
Q. What small, practical changes can a brand implement that genuinely make a difference?
“The first thing to accept is that responsibility does not require perfection. It requires action.
Start by paying people properly. A living wage is one of the strongest sustainability decisions any brand can make… Next, rethink your materials… Choosing mono-fibres or simpler natural materials makes repair, reuse and recycling far easier.
Overproduction is still the root of the problem. Smaller batches, on-demand production and pre-order models reduce unsold stock… Packaging is another area where brands can tighten things up… remove the pointless plastic.
Finally, commit to honesty… People are tired of greenwashing and big claims with no follow-through. Responsible fashion is not built on slogans. It grows from consistent, thoughtful decisions.”
Q. How do we shift consumer perception away from fast fashion expectations?
“We shift the mindset by telling the truth. People have been sold the fantasy that clothes can be cheap, fast and harmless, and it is simply not true… Most consumers have no idea what is actually inside their garments or what it takes to produce them.
There is also the psychological side. The compulsive buying cycle echoes other addictive patterns… once you see it in that light, the whole fast fashion model looks less like shopping and more like a system designed to keep people hooked. A big part of this change is making conscious fashion desirable.
Sustainability should not feel like punishment. It should feel like value, longevity and pride…
This is not about shaming anyone. It is about offering the clarity people were never given, so they can make choices that support their health, their values and the planet.”
FASHION + DESIGN WORD SEARCH BOOK: A PLAYFUL, RADICAL LITTLE OBJECT
Of course, I couldn’t not ask Vivienne about her new book, which, personally, I think is a brilliant Christmas gift for the fashion-obsessed friend who already owns every coffee-table book.
Q. What inspired you to create this book?
“I created this book because fashion education often feels exclusive, overwhelming or hidden behind academic rhetoric that most people never get access to… I wanted to open that door and offer something playful, clever and genuinely accessible.
A word search book may look simple, but it is a brilliant way to introduce people to designers, materials, movements and the culture that shapes our industry. You learn without feeling lectured… And if I am being honest, the book also supports the development of my accessory collection… At its heart, the book is creativity, learning and a touch of rebellion bound together.”
Q. How did you decide what to include?
“I chose the content by drawing directly from the world I live and work in… Fashion is a living ecosystem. You cannot tell its story by only looking backwards or only looking forward, so the book reflects both. I researched many of the fashion puzzle books out there, and most of them are painfully dumbed down… I wanted to create something smarter. Something that respects the craft, the innovators, the movements and the materials that genuinely shape how we design. It is a book created by someone who lives fashion from the inside, not someone observing it from a distance.”
Q. Was it important that the book itself reflect your ethical values?
“Yes, it mattered, although the reality was not straightforward… Amazon is the biggest distributor in the world… but their print-on-demand system does not currently offer recycled paper, eco inks or the responsible print options I would naturally prefer. I had real reservations about that… so I looked for a way to balance the impact transparently and in a way that felt meaningful. That is where MoreTrees comes in. I make quarterly donations… For me, sustainability is not about perfection. It is about intention, honesty and taking responsibility where you can.”
Q. Who is this book the perfect gift for?
“This book is the perfect gift for anyone who is tired of predictable festive presents and wants something with real personality… Fashion students, designers, fashion lovers… It is also made for the rebels… The ones who never choose the obvious. And let’s be honest, it is perfect for the impossible-to-buy-for friend… It is fun and tactile, but it also leaves you knowing more than when you opened it. A small gift with intelligence, edge and a touch of rebel spirit.”
We finished our conversation by talking about the future and whether she’s hopeful.
“I am hopeful about the future of fashion, but not in a naïve way… My hope comes from the new generation of designers, thinkers and makers who are no longer willing to repeat the old patterns.
What excites me most is the shift away from fashion as pure consumption and towards fashion with purpose… We are seeing a growing interest in repair, heritage skills, local production, regenerative systems and more thoughtful design.
However, we cannot pretend the road ahead is easy… We urgently need to rethink how we make and consume clothes… Even with all of that, I remain hopeful. Not blindly, but because I can see a braver, more informed generation emerging.”
And finally, her message to anyone who loves clothes and loves the planet:
“Buy with intention… Every piece you bring into your wardrobe has a footprint, a story and a set of hands behind it. Buy fewer pieces and wear them more. Take pride in re-wearing your wardrobe and styling it in new ways… Small, steady decisions matter… If you love clothes and you love the planet, slow down, choose with purpose and make each purchase count. That is how you Recalibrate your future™.”
I don’t know about you, but I finished this interview feeling both challenged and oddly hopeful. If you’d like to explore Vivienne’s world further, you can:
- Discover her work via Scarlet Destiny®
- Gift her Fashion + Design Word Search Book to the fashion lover in your life
- Or simply sit with her words and ask yourself: how can I recalibrate my own relationship with clothes?
With love,
Suzi 💛
P.S. SUZSTAINABLE sometimes uses affiliate links, whereby if you purchase an item using a link from this site, I earn a small percentage. For more information on affiliate links please see my affiliate policy.