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I’ve been colouring my hair since I was a teenager and when I started this website, a friend asked me if I was going to stop colouring my hair as the hair dye I have used for years is full of chemicals and it’s not sustainable. As well as the chemicals I already knew about, I started comparing natural vs synthetic dyes and discovered that most permanent hair dyes, or oxidative dyes contain P-phenylenediamine (PPD) which is added as it helps the new colour withstand numerous washings without fading.
So, it was a good question……I couldn’t imagine not having red hair, I’ve had it so long it’s part of my identity and I certainly don’t want to grow grey gracefully…so what’s the best solution?
THE CHEMICAL FACTS
PPD (p-Phenylenediamine) and the structurally-related 1,4-toluenediamine (PTD) is used in permanent hair dyes that rely on chemical reactions (called oxidation) to fix the colour[1], PPD is part of a class of chemicals called aromatic amines (others include para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminoaniline; 1,4-benzenediamine; p-diaminobenzene; 1,4-diaminobenzene and 1,4-phenylene diamine). PPD reacts with hydrogen peroxide to bind the colour to the hair permanently and it is also often mixed with other chemicals, such as resorcinol, to achieve a particular colour of dye.
There are many health concerns regarding PPD, it is a known skin sensitizer and can lead to allergic reactions. More of a concern is that P-phenylenediamine can alter the genetic material of cells and it has long been suspected of being carcinogenic, however, studies looking at the risk of cancer associated with the use of hair dyes have returned conflicting results and the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) states that it is unable to classify the carcinogenicity of p-phenylenediamine.
Often referred to as hair dye poisoning, p-phenylenediamine can cause respiratory distress and renal failure if ingested. It can cause swelling in the upper respiratory tract and larynx which causes respiratory distress and if the poisoning is severe enough, it can also cause renal failure and can ultimately be fatal.
Resorcinol, which reacts with a developer (usually peroxide) to bond the dye permanently to the hairs is also a chemical of concern as in high doses it is toxic and can disrupt the function of the central nervous system and lead to respiratory problems. It has also been shown to disrupt the endocrine system, specifically thyroid function.
MY CONCLUSION
My research has shown that most permanent hair colours, even the more “natural” ones contain PPD and Hydrogen Peroxide as they are essential in an oxidative permanent hair dye. Many hair dyes are marketed as ‘natural’ because of the higher number of natural extracts or ingredients in the formula – for example, a fruit oil or oat protein to condition the hair during colouring. The term does not mean these natural ingredients are included to the exclusion of synthetic or chemical ingredients, nor does it mean that the dye does not contain PPD, PTD, ammonia or peroxide.
It seems that darker shades of dye typically require more PPD or PTD than lighter shades and legislation over its use in hair dye sets the maximum concentration of PPD at 2% and PTD at 2%. Anything higher is not permitted by law in the EU. The more natural hair dyes generally contain the absolute minimum levels of PPD, well below the maximum set by EU law. Some contain gentler alternatives that are less irritating or aggressive.
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“Red hair, sir, in my opinion, is dangerous.”
― P.G. Wodehouse, Very Good, Jeeves!
HENNA
Henna in its true form does not contain PPD or PTD as it is a natural product, orange-brown in colour, that is used to colour hair without the use of chemicals. On skin, it leaves an orangey stain. Some henna products – especially black or dark henna – contain PPD, so you should always check the labels.
Many people suggested Henna, but I’ve tried it before and didn’t like the colour on me – don’t get me wrong pure, organic henna is a great natural alternative hair dye and is great for people who have allergies to synthetic dyes. Henna is also very difficult to lift out of your hair later, as it builds up on the hair over time and it’s recommended that before using a different hair dye it is allowed to grow out, as henna’s natural function is to act as a barrier to things which are harmful to your hair.
Henna in its true form does not contain PPD or PTD as it is a natural product, orange-brown in colour, that is used to colour hair without the use of chemicals. On skin, it leaves an orangey stain.
HENNA
Henna comes from the Lawsonia inermis, a flowering plant that contains a pigment in its leaves which can produce a red, orange, copper or brown pigment or dye. Commonly believed to be indigenous to northern Africa and Asia, henna been used to dye the hair, nails and skin for thousands of years. It is usually mixed into a mud, using hot water, lemon juice, vinegar, or other acidic additives, which strengthens the dyeing properties forming a mud-like consistency then applied to the hair for up to 48 hours.
Henna is one of the few materials found in nature that has an affinity with the hair’s keratin, meaning it provides an amazing permanent colour without the need for a chemical mordant to ‘fix’ the colour in place.
Henna is very effective at covering grey hair and is known to be a good conditioner as it nourishes it from root to tip, making it smooth. Henna can make hair shinier too as it helps to restore the natural pH balance of the hair and scalp. Henna’s antimicrobial properties can cool the scalp, increase the efficiency of the hair growth treatment, eliminate dandruff, and it also strengthens hair and seals the cuticle, thickening the hair, making it more resistant to breakage.
Henna produces a permanent hair dye, which is most vibrant for the first 4 to 6 weeks, but it starts to gradually fade after that, but this may vary person to person, as a henna treatment will develop differently depending on the individual tones unique to your hair.
WHERE TO BUY HENNA
LUSH: Lush henna bricks are composed of 100% natural ingredients, including the highest quality Iranian henna and indigo, and herbs and essential oils which benefit the hair and scalp.
Colours range from fiery red using Rouge Henna, chestnut or chocolate brown (Marron or Brun) to raven-black with blue-black tones. Pure henna powder does not give raven-black or dark reddish-brown colours, so they are achieved mixing henna with another natural ingredient, indigo. Indigo, a tropical plant, produces a dark blue shade, when mixed with henna’s orange/red tones, creates a deep, midnight colour and inky shades (Noir). Lush also provide guide on how to use henna as well as a Q&A to answer all your henna related questions.
Orientana Bio Hair Henna is a is Polish brand, that is free from harmful chemicals such as parabens, silicones, mineral oil, phthalates, PEGs, paraffin, SLS/SLES/ALS chemical pigments, preservatives, fragrances or aromas. All ingredients come from certified crops and are manufactured in line with Ayurveda principles. Orientana is cruelty-free and against animal testing and the Bio Hair Henna is 100% vegan.
There are 6 shades ranging from neutral, caramel and hazel brown, dark chocolate, mahogany red to ebony black. Ingredients include Lawsonia to nourish the hair, provide relief from dandruff and hair loss; Amla which is a natural conditioner, improves hair growth and slows down greying and Brahmi, an Ayruvedic ingredient that prevents hair loss. Other ingredients include Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Powder and Acacia Concinna Fruit Powder.
Radico Colour Me Organic hair colour’s are made from certified 100% organic ingredients, which include colourless henna leaf, indigo leaf powder, amla fruit , bhringraj leaf, henna leaf, hibiscus flower, methi/fenu-greek, manjistha root and brahmi leaf. They are not tested on animals and are vegan friendly.
The Colour Me Organic hair dye range comes in 23 colours and the powder range, geared towards advanced users who are knowledgeable about the effects of each ingredient is excellent for targeted hair treatments.
Renaissance Henna: Renaissance Henna sell hair dye from three key ingredients: pure henna, pure indigo and pure cassia obovate, which is a natural hair conditioner treatment for all hair colours and all hair types including dry, damaged hair. Cassia obovate, also known as senna italica or colourless henna, is an ancient ayurvedic herb that has been used in India for centuries.
Products include a wide range of henna colours and organic and PPD free hair colours. Their Natural Hair Dye Library also provides a wide range of resources about using natural hair dye made from plants and the Q & A section also answers questions about the safety of using henna.
Surya Brasil: Surya Brasil is a natural, organic and vegan cruelty-free brand dedicated to sustainability, fair trade practices and prices, ethical sourcing of materials and products in a socially responsible manner, supporting local producers and communities and standing up for animal rights and against the use of pesticides and chemicals in all products.
The Surya Brasil Henna Powder is a 100% natural plant-based hair colour available in 8 shades. Ingredients include Amla, which is a rich source of vitamin C and fatty acids, Henna, Shikakai which is a climbing shrub of Ayurvedic composition, Terminalia Belerica, another traditional Indian Ayurvedic medicine which works as an astringent and bactericide and Indigo which has helps intensify the hair colour.
Surya Brasil’s Henna Cream is an anti-oxidant rich semi-permanent hair colour that uses sustainably harvested botanicals and vegetable extracts including herbs and fruits from Brazil and India, which offer simultaneous colouration and deep conditioning treatment for the hair as well as intense treatment for the scalp.
Both the cream and powder are free from Ammonia, Heavy metals, Parabens, Mineral oils, Silicone, Resorcinol, EDTA, GMOs, Hydrogen Peroxide, Sodium Chloride (salt), Sodium Perborate (oxidant), Synthetic Fragrance, PPD, BHT, Diethanolamine (ammonia by-product), Ethanolamine (ammonia by-product) and Triethanolamine (ammonia by-product).
PERMANENT HAIR COLOURS
BioKap: BioKap Nutricolor hair dye ranges include an impressive 53 natural colours from browns, blondes, reds to blacks for permanent grey coverage. I haven’t tried this brand yet, but there are three ranges: Nutricolor Hair Dye which comes in 22 shades, Nutricolor Delicato Hair Dyes which comes in 15 shades, with high skin tolerability, and Nutricolor Delicato Rapid Hair Dyes which comes in 12 shades. There is also a rapid touch-up spray designed to instantly cover root regrowth just as a new colour would.
BioKap Nutricolour hair dyes are free from Ammonia, Resorcin, PPD, PEG, Silicones, SLS and Parabens. They contain argan oil, wheat vegetable protein, willow extract soy, rice and oats and lactosafe® (fruit lipophilic acids with a skin soothing effect). All their products use proven-safe natural ingredients and organic extracts and are nickel and dermatologically tested.
The BioKap Bellezza bio-organic line includes shampoos and conditioner which are vegan formulas, with over 97% of ingredients of natural origin, a high percentage of which is from organic farming. They are certified according to Cosmos Organic guidelines by Ecocert Greenlife and have rapidly biodegradable cleansing bases and fragrances obtained exclusively from natural and certified essential oils. They are free from: PEG, silicones, parabens, SLES and are nickel and dermatologically tested. I am keen to try out the Titan or Ruby Red and have just ordered the BioKap Anticaduta Reinforcing Shampoo and Lotion, enriched with organic bamboo silicon and selected ingredients which counteract fragility and thinning – my hair definitely needs a re-boost after two years living in Hanoi, Vietnam, where the water and air-pollution wreaked havoc on my already colour-damaged hair! Finger’s crossed it’s the miracle I’m looking for.
BioKap’s ethical credentials include several projects aimed at helping the environment from involvement in the LifeGate’s Zero Impact® project to the photovoltaic system installed at their headquarters with 300 polycrystal solar panels, capable of reducing carbon dioxide emissions by about 36 tons a year.
Madison Reed: Maison Reed initially looked like a perfect choice for me as their Smart 8-Free permanent hair colours are free from eight of the harsh chemicals and ingredients often found in hair dyes: ammonia, parabens, resorcinol, PPD, phthalates, gluten, SLS, and titanium dioxide. They are also cruelty-free and not tested on animals.
Madison Reed’s multi-dimensional hair colours are artisan-crafted hair dyes, suitable in for all hair types and provide 100% grey coverage. They contain a range of hair-loving nutrients including keratin, argan oil, and ginseng root extract to protect the hair, however after doing the Find Your Shade Hair Quiz, the recommended colour for my type and shade of hair was Medium Auburn Red, which to be honest just didn’t look like it had the pizzazz I was looking for, but if you’re looking for very natural shades then Madison Reed colours might be perfect for you.
If you’re not sure what colour is best for you, can also visit one of Madison Reed’s Hair Colour Bars for a free colour consultation, chat with a licensed colourist online or take a virtual hair colour makeover tour by uploading a selfie or using your camera to try on different shades.
Tints of Nature: I was excited about discovering Tints of Nature as it’s made of 95% naturally derived and 75% certified organic ingredients; no ammonia, parabens, Cocamide DEA, formaldehyde, SLS/SLES, propylene glycol, silicone and it’s vegan-friendly and cruelty-free. It does however contain small quantities of hydrogen peroxide and PPD. Organic ingredients include aloe, chamomile, green tea and marigold which moisturise the scalp, orange and grapefruit which aid colour retention and jojoba, almond and shea butter, amongst other ingredients, that nourish and condition the hair
Tint’s of Nature Permanent Hair Colour range covers greys and is available in 24 shades from black, brown, red and blonde. I tried the Fiery Red/ Rouge Flamboyant 5FR permanent colour and I absolutely loved the results. It’s the first time I’ve used this product and my first impressions were good. It was easy to use, the shampoo and conditioner has a lovely fragrance and my hair looked exactly like the colour on the box.
I also love the look of their Bold Colours, which are a range of 8 bold customisable colours, which can be used on their own or mixed with Bold Pasteliser to achieve softer pastel shades, suitable for light, bright, natural blonde or lightened blonde hair, so I wasn’t able to try it myself. The Bold range is the perfect way to experiment with a bright new look without long term commitment and these colours do not contain peroxide.
Their ethical credentials include operating LEAN manufacturing processes to EU standards, adopting environmentally friendly methods, from how their factory in Lymington operates to encouraging greener initiatives for employees.
Tints of Nature products are available online and in both independent health food stores and grocery chains including Wholefoods in the UK and Sprouts in the US.
Henna in its true form does not contain PPD or PTD as it is a natural product, orange-brown in colour, that is used to colour hair without the use of chemicals. On skin, it leaves an orangey stain.
Naturtint: Probably one of the better-known permanent hair colours on the market, Naturtint use high levels of Certified Organic, Approved Natural Origin and Natural Origin ingredients in their hair dyes, such as Olive Oleic Acid with its photo-protective properties to help to protect hair from environmental damage; Meadowfoam Seed Oil, which helps to restore hair’s elasticity and keep it moisturised and full of shine; Quinoa, which is considered a “complete protein” as it contains all essential amino acids; Organic Shea Butter and Baobab Proteins, which help to rebuild the hair’s natural keratin and protects hair from heat, UV and pollution. Naturtint is against animal testing, their products do not contain any animal ingredients and so are suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Naturtint Permanent colours contain PPD and other chemical ingredients including hydrogen peroxide. Naturtint Root Retouch Creme is available in four varieties for most hair colours – Dark Brown Shades, Light Brown Shades, Dark Blonde Shades and Light Blonde Shades contain many natural ingredients such as: Meadowfoam Seed Oil which helps to protect the scalp during the colouring process, Argan Oil, Sunflower Extract, Hydrolysed Wheat Protein, Linseed Seed Extract and Lemon Fruit Water; they are also free from Ammonia, Resorcinol, Parabens and SLS but do contain toluene-2,5 diamino sulphate (also known as PTD or para-toluenediamines). I’ve used 5R Fire Red Naturtint Permanent Hair Colour before and I was happy with the results, the colour was a brighter red and my hair looked well conditioner after use.
Other recommended brands include: Light Mountain Hair Color, Morrocco Method International Henna, It’s Pure Organic and Sante 100% Herbal Hair Color.
So, if you feel like changing your hair colour or are worried about the chemicals in these products, even the small quantities, the best option is either pure, natural Henna or a semi-permanent colour.
SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOURS
Naturtint’s Reflex Semi-Permanent Hair Colours are available in 6 shades from Black to Golden Blonde, and are free from Hydrogen Peroxide, Ammonia, Resorcinol, Parabens, DEA, SLS, SLES, Mineral Oils, Paraffin and significantly, PPD and PTD. Reflex shades can be used to enhance your natural colour or darken hair, for up to 10 washes. Because they don’t contain Hydrogen Peroxide, they cannot lighten hair and because they don’t contain colour pigments such as PPD or PTD, they can only cover the early signs of grey and cannot cover white or stubborn grey or give a permanent result.
Tints of Nature’s Semi-permanent Henna Cream shades are great if you’re looking for a temporary colour change, looking to experiment with a new shade or want to add depth to your existing colour. They are available in 9 shades and are free from PPD/ PTD, Ammonia and Resorcinol and are vegan friendly and cruelty free.
Natures Grey Busters: Natures Grey Busters are a range of semi-permanent hair dyes that last up to 8 washes and are free from PPD/PTD ammonia and peroxide. Available in only 4 colours from brown to black, the product is so easy to apply as no mixing is required.
Please note that this post includes affiliate links. I have also included links to each brand I have mentioned, so if you are interested in purchasing these products you can either use the affiliate link or go to the brand website.
REFERENCES & SOURCES:
[1] Environmental Protection Agency listing on P-phenylenediamine. Found online at: https://www.epa.gov/haps/health-effects-notebook-hazardous-air-pollutants
[2] Bolt H.M, Golka K (2007) The Debate on Carcinogenicity of Permanent Hair Dyes: New Insights. Criticial Reviews in Toxicology 37: 521-536
P-Phenylenediamine