Feature Photo by Antonio Gabola on Unsplash
So far, this summer has been nothing but a damp squib and occasional rainbows, but rest assured summer is on its way. Once it’s here though don’t forget to stay safe – National Sun Awareness Week, earlier this month, brings a stark reminder that too much ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun can damage DNA in our skin cells and cause skin cancer.
Skin cancer is the most common type of cancer in the world. It’s also the easiest to avoid – 90 per cent of all skin cancer deaths could be prevented if sun exposure is controlled. The best way to enjoy the sun safely and protect your skin is to use a combination of shade, clothing and sunscreen.
What is National Sun Awareness Week?
Sun Awareness is the British Association of Dermatologists’ annual campaign to raise awareness of skin cancer. The campaign runs from April to September annually and includes Sun Awareness Week in May. The campaign is two-pronged and aims to highlight the dangers of exposure to the sun, sunburn and excessive tanning and combines prevention and detection advice.
Also, working in conjunction with Sun Awareness, the award-winning No Time to Lose (NTTL) campaign from the Institution of Occupational Safety and Health (IOSH) aims to explain the causes of occupational cancer and help businesses take action.
National Sun Awareness Week offers professional guidance on how we can all enjoy the sun safely and shatters all the myths surrounding sun exposure. It’s run by medical professionals who provide the facts, evidence and tips that will make sure you and your family are safe in the sun.
Why is it important?
It’s a fact that exposure to the sun increases your likelihood of getting skin cancer – it’s linked to 65 per cent of malignant melanoma and 99 per cent of non-melanoma skin cancer.
Worldwide, non-melanoma skin cancer is the most frequently diagnosed cancer, with an estimated 2-3 million cases registered every year. Skin cancer cases are on the increase in the UK – and they are rising even faster than in the rest of Europe; in Britain, there are at least 1,500 new cases of non-melanoma skin cancer and 240 new cases of malignant melanoma, with 60 fatal cases that are linked to sun exposure at work a year.
Feeling the Burn?
A survey into British sunscreen habits carried out by the British Association of Dermatologists to mark Sun Awareness Week in 2016 indicated that eighty per cent of us are failing to adequately apply sunscreen before being exposed to the sun, and 70 per cent of people fail to reapply sunscreen every two hours as recommended.
There’s also a lot of confusion surrounding what exactly constitutes “exposure to the sun”, and many people do not realise that a sunny day in winter can be just as dangerous as a beautiful summer’s day. There’s also no such thing as a healthy tan; getting painful sunburn just once every two years can triple the risk of the most deadly form of skin cancer, malignant melanoma, so it’s time to make sure you have your sunscreen at the ready, but before you run out and buy something to protect yourself, consider that not all sunscreens are created equal, and as a conscious consumer who wants to avoid “chemical” ingredients, but also doesn’t want to get skin cancer, I have been looking at what’s best on the market to keep me and marine life safe.
CHOOSE REEF SAFE
Our coral reefs need all the help they can get. They’re suffering catastrophic bleaching events due to pollution, plastic waste, and ocean warming due to climate change and on top of that, in 2015, research came out showing that the sunscreen ingredients oxybenzone and octinoxate can damage coral and both have been banned from Hawaii and Key West in efforts to preserve coral reefs.
Oxybenzone is found in more than 3,500 sunscreen products worldwide, as well as lipstick, mascara and shampoo and acts as a barrier to UV light and is entirely replaceable by other, less marine-toxic ingredients according to the NGO MarineSafe.
Look for “reef-safe” or “reef-friendly” sunscreens that are also free of parabens and phthalates.
MINERAL SUNSCREEN VERSES CONVENTIONAL?
Mineral sunscreens sit on top of your skin to reflect UV rays, whereas chemical sunscreens penetrate into the skin and absorb UV rays. I’ve been looking at the conflicting evidence about mineral sunscreens with active ingredients titanium dioxide and/or zinc verses their more conventional counterparts and to be honest when you dive a little deeper it really comes down to personal choice, because the evidence points towards conventional counterparts being more effective.
According to Consumer Reports, natural sunscreens, commonly known as mineral sunscreens, whose active ingredients are the natural materials titanium dioxide and/or zinc, have consistently performed poorly compared to their conventional counterparts. While these two mineral filters have their own drawbacks (read about nano and non-nano zinc oxide here), they pale in comparison to all the negative aspects of chemical filters, however nanoscale zinc and titanium oxides have been linked to potential reproductive and developmental effects. Some mineral sunscreens will only contain zinc, while others contain both. Unlike chemical sunscreens, zinc is a broad-spectrum filter that sits on your skin reflecting and scattering UVA and UVB rays and because of limited skin absorption, mineral sunscreens may be less irritating, but they often feel heavy and are difficult to rub in causing a white cakey coating over the skin.
Many people also dislike the greasy feeling that comes with wearing conventional sunscreen and this is often something that deters people from giving themselves the protection from the sun that they need. There is a purpose for this – the UV filters in the sunscreen needs this oil to help them dissolve in order for them to become effective.
Sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB rays, but what are they?
UVA rays penetrate deep into the thickest layers of the skin, tanning and aging skin and contributes to early signs of aging and tissue damage, whereas UVB rays penetrate the outer layers of the skin which causes immediate damage on the surface, i.e. sunburn and is linked to some types of skin cancer. There are also UVC rays, but they are mostly absorbed by the ozone layer so don’t actually reach Earth.
Sunscreens contain filters that filter the harmful rays of the sun to reduce skin damage; the two types of filters used in sunscreens include chemical and physical (also referred to as “mineral”) filters, the former being the type utilized in most commercially available sunscreens, and the latter considered to be the safer and more environmentally friendly option.
There are a number of commonly used chemical sunscreens, and while some do filter by scattering the sun’s rays, most work by absorbing the sun’s UV rays and converting it to heat that is dispersed in the skin.
WHAT’S THE LEGISLATION?
The European Union has much more stringent regulations concerning personal care product ingredients (which includes sunscreens) than the U.S. In the EU, if an ingredient has been linked by any plausible research to health concerns, then it’s banned out of caution. The US government requires conclusive evidence that people exposed to a specific chemical will be harmed before it can be banned, and as a consequence far more chemicals are deemed “safe”, than in Europe.
Also, current US regulations do NOT require that sunscreens protect from UVA rays. UVA rays do not burn the skin like UVB rays, but they do cause damage and can lead to cancer, so many consumers may not know of this regulation and aren’t aware that they aren’t fully protecting themselves from skin damage.
Active ingredient toxicity
One ingredient banned in the EU is titanium dioxide (which is an active ingredient supposedly deemed safe and is found in natural mineral sunscreens) because when inhaled, it’s a carcinogen. Inhaling is worse than ingesting or absorbing through your skin, therefore if using a natural sunscreen make sure it’s a lotion rather than a spray – as it turns ingredients that are safe into ingredients that are not safe.
Among the many problems with sunscreen containing chemical filters, the most troubling are: toxicity concerns of chemical filters, particularly oxybenzone, which is a commonly used active ingredient in sunscreen, found in many non-mineral options. There are a number of concerns about the effect of oxybenzone on human health and currently it’s on the EU’s ‘Substitute It Now’ list of substances that should be replaced and meets the criteria for ‘Substances of Very High Concern’. According to the EWA, there is publicly available scientific research that oxybenzone is readily absorbed through the skin and as well as causing allergic skin reactions, it behaves like an endocrine disruptor interfering with hormones in the body and may increase the risk of breast cancer and endometriosis. According to the EWG children may be more vulnerable than adults to harm from oxybenzone “because of the potential for higher absorption and bioaccumulation.”
Most chemical sunscreens in the U.S. contain avobenzone stabilizers like octocrylene, homosalate, or octisalate. as an active ingredient. Avobenzone is an FDA-approved chemical to block UVA, it breaks down very quickly in sunlight and releases harmful free radicals and may also trigger an allergic response but more concerning is that they may also disrupt your hormone level.
Octocrylene readily absorbs through the skin and studies have found that octocrylene causes relatively high rates of skin allergies, and it is often contaminated with the known carcinogen benzophenone. The European Commission recently concluded that although there was some evidence of octocrylene’s endocrine-disrupting potential, current use concentrations up to 10 percent were considered safe.
Homosalate is an organic UV filter widely used in U.S. sunscreens. The FDA has proposed that there is insufficient data to evaluate whether it is safe and effective to use in sunscreens. Homosalate has been found to penetrate the skin, disrupt hormones and produce toxic breakdown byproducts over time. The European Commission has also recently published preliminary opinions on the safety of homosalate and found that the levels at which homosalate is currently used are not safe; hundreds of sunscreens manufactured in the U.S. use them at concentrations that far exceed the European Commission’s recommendations.
Octisalate is an organic UV filter, which readily absorbs through the skin and has been linked to allergic contact dermatitis and may have endocrine effects, weakly binding to the estrogen receptor according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The FDA proposed update suggests there is insufficient data to determine whether octisalate can be classified as safe and effective to use in sunscreens (FDA 2019).
Inactive ingredient toxicity
These are the ingredients that “carry” the active ingredients—and they are what make a lotion a lotion or a spray a spray. Retinyl palmitate, or vitamin A is an antioxidant commonly used in sunscreens and other skincare and anti-aging products and should be avoided. Although it’s not banned, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) has urged regulators to consider restrictions, asking manufacturers to voluntarily stop using retinyl palmitate due to studies that link it to skin cancer and according to government tests, it speeds up the development of skin tumors and lesions on sun-exposed skin.
It is also known to convert readily to retinoids, which have been associated with a risk of birth defects in people using acne medication containing the substance and it’s made from palm oil, an ingredient that is destroying rainforests and contributing to air pollution and climate change.
Fragrance
The term fragrance, can include a blend of nearly 4,000 ingredients. The regulatory situation for fragrances is extremely complex and there is no official body regulating fragrances including no labelling requirements as to the ingredients of the fragrances so the term fragrance can simply be listed on the bottle, which means they can contain a mixture of many different natural and synthetic chemical ingredients. Some common ingredients in fragrances include phalathates, which should be avoided as scientists agree they are known endocrine disruptors.
Parabens, which are used as preservatives should also be avoided; common parabens include propylparaben, methylparaben, ethylparaben and butylparaben. Also look out for Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLES), which can cause irritation to people who are allergic, although it is not banned for use in cosmetics by the European Union.
In the US, the FDA is strangely strict about approving new sunscreen ingredients for sale in the U.S. However, the FDA does strictly regulate drug products, and in the US sunscreen is classified as a drug product instead of a cosmetic product. The FDA has not added any new sunscreen ingredients since 1999, and some ingredients have been rejected by them including several that are proven to be more effective at blocking damaging rays, and have been used safely by Europeans for years.
Conclusion & Recommendations
So – it’s time to pick your poison – it’s clear that choosing the right sunscreen is not a simple, straightforward task and it’s an individual decision as to which is the lesser of two evils….mineral or chemical??
Personally, I prefer the mineral options for sunscreen and combine these with covering up and spending time in the shade. In the UK, the sun’s UV rays are the strongest between 11am and 3pm from mid-March to mid-October. During this time, the sun may be strong enough to cause damage, so I generally spend time in the shade between 11am and 3pm when I’m in the UK. Covering up with clothes, a wide-brimmed hat and wraparound sunglasses also helps, as shade and clothing are more effective than sunscreen at protecting your skin.
Use a sunscreen with at least SPF15 and 4 or 5 stars. Use it generously, reapply regularly as it is useful for protecting the parts of skin not covered by clothing or shade. Don’t use sunscreens to spend longer in the sun. As far as mineral sunscreens are concerned – these are my recommendations:
Raw Elements USA Sunscreen
Raw Elements USA uses only organic ingredients and is biodegradable, however it’s not vegan as products contain beeswax. Made and packaged in the USA this brand was founded by ocean lifeguard Brian Guadagno who wanted to develop a safe and effective sunscreen for beaches and beachgoers when one did not exist. Raw Elements USA is reef-safe, meaning it does not contain any of the cautionary ingredients that will cause harm to coral reefs or marine life from damaging DNA to bleaching.
ECO STICK & Face + Body 30+ Tin sunscreen
They offer a range of products but one of my favourites is the Eco Stick, which is a really great option for anyone surfing or out in the water for extended periods of time – it can be reapplied on wet skin and also under water! I also love the Face + Body 30+ Tin sunscreen which comes in a recyclable/ reusable tin and is made with certified all-natural ingredients, it provides UVA-UVB true broad-spectrum protection. The only active ingredient is non-nano zinc oxide particles which enables the sunscreen to sit on top of skin creating a physical UV barrier, unlike sunscreens with nanoparticles which are small enough to be absorbed through the skin and into the bloodstream. As a performance driven sunscreen, packed with biologically active antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and extracts, it is very water resistant and continues protecting your skin long after environmental exposure, and is safe for children.
Amongst their many certifications, Raw Elements USA is a 1% For The Planet business member. Raw Elements USA are the only US sunscreen whose entire brand is verified by the Non-GMO Project and also Leaping Bunny Certified, which guarantees consumers that no animal tests were used in the development of any product and shows a commitment to using only ingredients that are cruelty free. In addition, they are a founding brand as part of EWG’s Sun Safety Coalition and are a Champion Status Signer for The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.
Credo
Credo claims to be the largest clean beauty store on the planet, and is a great place to find clean products with transparency about ingredients. Credo’s mission has always been to change the industry for the better. They believe that in order for “clean” to have real meaning, brands need guidelines—and required compliance, so they have created The Credo Clean Standard™, that is dedicated to inclusivity, transparency and education. Their Dirty List® contains over 2,700 specific ingredients and types of ingredients that are used in mainstream beauty products, but are prohibited by brands sold on Credo, due to safety and/or sustainability reasons.
EleVen by Venus Williams Unrivaled Sun Serum SPF 35
Available at Credo, EleVen by Venus Williams Unrivaled Sun Serum SPF 35, is a lightweight serum combining skincare and mineral sun protection for all skin types and skin tones. This dermatologist-approved serum applies transparently and absorbs quickly on all skin tones, creating a smooth velvety finish. 25% zinc oxide provides reef-safe broad-spectrum sun protection, and prickly pear delivers long lasting hydration while helping to calm and soothe skin. Unrivaled Sun Serum is the ultimate multi-tasker as the final step before applying makeup, leaving skin with a beautiful demi-matte glow, and its fragrance free, so nasty hidden chemicals.
ACURE Radically Rejuvenating SPF 30 Day Cream
Also available at Credo is ACURE Radically Rejuvenating SPF 30 Day Cream, a reef-safe, facial moisturizer with broad spectrum sun protection that is good for all skin types including dry, mature, sensitive, blemish-prone, combination and normal.
The active ingredient is 15% zinc oxide combined with inactive nourishing botanicals allantoin, aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice and turmeric, ferulic acid & vitamin C to hydrate, protect, and provide nutrients to your skin!
ACURE is a family owned and operated company founded on sustainable principles; their products are vegan and free from animal testing, parabens, and sulfates.
malu Honua Hawaiian Skincare SPF 30
MALU Honua Hawaiian Skincare alu SPF 30 is also available at Credo. Its a daytime moisturizer with SPF 30 sun protection and is good for all skin types including dry, mature, sensitive, blemish-prone, combination and normal. MALU Honua Hawaiian Skincare SPF uses modern natural protectants and traditional Hawaiian ingredients to keep your skin protected from sun damage and daily environmental pollutants.
The active ingredient is 12% non-nano zinc oxide combined with natural botanicals such as aloe barbadensis leaf juice. It’s also cruelty-free, palm-free, vegan and synthetic fragrance-free.
This brand provides radical fragrance transparency, which means the fragrance ingredients are fully disclosed to you (not hidden behind the word “fragrance”, which is often the case), therefore scents of jasmine merge with antioxidant noni and nourishing laukahi for a creamy, luxurious day cream that does not leave a white cakey covering on the skin.
A percentage of their proceeds from MALU benefits Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii, a non-profit that educates our community and keeps our oceans clean.
Badger
Protect Land & Sea Sunscreen Cream Tin - SPF 40
The SPF 40 Clear Zinc Sunscreen Cream contains just four naturally nourishing ingredients; its 98% organic with no added fragrance so it’s great for sensitive skin. And it’s one of the first sunscreens ever to be certified by Protect Land + Sea, a new seal verifying that a product is free and clear of the pollutants that harm coral reefs, sea turtles, and other aquatic life.
It contains 22.5% clear zinc oxide for safe, effective broad-spectrum protection, it won’t clog your pores and its hypoallergenic, biodegradable, and certified cruelty-free. It’s also non-GMO certified by the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) and comes in an eco-friendly, reusable, beach-bag-worthy tin.
In 2006, the EWG released its first guide to safe sunscreens, and Badger Sunscreen was top of the list. Badger sunscreens are all organic and are waterless and contain simple, USDA Certified Organic ingredients like beeswax and botanical oils so they feel smooth on the skin.
All their sunscreens use mineral zinc oxide, the safest active ingredient available for effective broad-spectrum protection.
Badger sunscreens are created to ensure the clear Zinc formulas absorb quickly with no white cakey covering and are safe for coral reefs, manufactured with 100% solar power, and certified cruelty-free.
AILLEA
AILLEA is all about empowering women to make healthy choices about the products they put on their body. Realizing that true transparency does not exist in the beauty industry, founder Kathryn Murray Dickinson set out to create a safe haven where people KNOW that EVERY product is safe – free of parabens, sulfates, petrochemicals, endocrine disruptors or other toxic chemicals, and were not tested on animals.
AILLEA marketplace aims to have the safest products available and have some of the strictest standards in the industry. They continually study ingredients to ensure they are using the most current research available and provide a very long list of ALL of the ingredients banned from their products (there are over 1300).
ILIA SUPER SERUM SKIN TINT SPF 40
ILIA Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40 is a clean, Award-Wining light-coverage, tinted mineral SPF 40 serum that fuses skincare, makeup, and non-nano zinc oxide sun protection into one easy weightless serum.
The active ingredient is 12% non-nano zinc oxide which is combined with a blend of Hyaluronic Acids, Niacinamide and plant-based Squalane, which helps hydrate and improve elasticity without clogging pores.
ILIA’s Skin Tint evens tone, softens fine lines and imperfections, and dries down to a natural, dewy finish. Its silicone-free, fragrance-free, chemical screen-free, oil-free and safe for sensitive skin.
ILIA uses TerraCycle’s Zero Waste Box platform that is dedicated to recycling the hard-to-recycle packaging.
SUNTEGRITY NATURAL MINERAL SUNSCREEN SPF 30 - UNSCENTED
Suntegrity’s Unscented Body SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen is unscented, vegan and cruelty-free and offers broad-spectrum protection.
This formula is the same as their body sunscreen without the scent, so it’s ideal for babies, kids and adults sensitive to scent. It’s also free from harsh chemicals like parabens, phthalates, propylene glycol, mineral oil, synthetic dyes, sulfates, nanoparticles and chemical UV absorbers.
The active ingredient is 20% non-nano, uncoated zinc oxide which is combined with a blend of inactive organic ingredients such as Green Tea Extract, Cucumber Extract, and Pomegranate Seed Oil.
Suntegrity was awarded “Champion” Status by the EWG/Compact for Safe Cosmetics and was featured in the “Best Sunscreens” category with a #1 Rating in the EWG’s 2013 & 2014 Sunscreen guides.
non-mineral sunscreen
If you prefer a non-mineral sunscreen the EWG provides a comprehensive list with in-depth knowledge about each product, ingredient scores and guidance on how it compares to other non-mineral and recreational sunscreens. The guide is based on published scientific literature and the ratings indicate both efficacy and the relative level of concern posed by exposure to the ingredients in each product – not the product itself – compared to other sunscreens. The ratings reflect potential health hazards but do not account for the level of exposure or individual susceptibility, factors which determine actual health risks.
Alternatively you can also check out skinCarisma or INCIdecoder, which are both analyzer tools that explain what each ingredient does to your skin in layman’s terms and are great if you want to get a better understand of ingredient safety in your skincare products.
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