Feature Photo by Sora Shimazaki from Pexels.com
Did you know that 2.7 million sharks are captured and killed annually for their livers? The primary reason behind this inhumane practice is the cosmetics industry.
SQUALENE COMES FROM SHARK LIVERS
Shark livers contain squalene, a highly sought-after oil known for its moisturising and restorative properties. Since sharks don’t have swim bladders like bony fish to aid in buoyancy, they have large oily livers that help them control their buoyancy. A shark’s liver can be up to 25% of its body weight, making it the biggest organ in their body. In general, deeper water sharks have a higher content of squalene than other sharks.
The use of squalene in cosmetics helps to increase the spreadability and absorption of creams and lotions. It has been proven to prevent moisture loss, diminish the appearance of fine lines, and aid in preventing wrinkles and it is used as an emollient in various personal care products such as sunscreen, foundation, moisturiser, lipstick, eye makeup, and tanning oil. Unfortunately, the high demand for this ingredient has led to a significant impact on deep-sea shark species. It’s essential to be aware of the impact of our cosmetic choices and make informed decisions to protect our environment.
What is Squalene?
According to Shark Stewarts, whose mission it is to save endangered sharks and rays from overfishing and the shark fin trade, and protect critical marine habitat through the establishment of marine protected areas, Squalene – or squalane, when processed for products (with an “a” ), is a naturally occurring oil that can be sourced from shark liver. This molecule, with a chemical formula of C30H50, can also be found in various plants like olive oil, coconut oil, sugarcane and soapbox trees. Squalene is utilised as a natural lubricating oil and it is a vital component of sebum in human skin, accounting for around 13% of its composition as well as serving as a precursor for biosynthesis in our livers.
Squalene is an antioxidant and emollient often used in cosmetics and skin care products and although admired for its ability to impressively mimic the skin’s natural oils, the ingredient is generally too ambiguously sourced to be classed as ethical or sustainable and labelling does not always identify if the squalene is plant-based or comes from sharks. It’s really important therefore, to carefully read the labels and study the ingredients, and just as critical to look at the brands ethos, ethics, values, mission and how they align themselves with the world, in other words looking at the brand as a whole, when choosing products that you can trust in.
The Impact
Shark populations have declined by more than 70% over the past 50 years. A 2021 study in the scientific journal Nature indicates that 71 % of all shark species have disappeared and despite increased public awareness surrounding the conservation of sharks, 77% of oceanic sharks and rays are threatened with extinction. Deep-sea sharks, which are the most coveted by the beauty industry, are especially vulnerable because they have such long lifespans and, therefore, slow reproduction rates.
The demand for liver oil extracted from deep-sea sharks has also put these magnificent creatures in grave danger, as the high value placed on their liver oil, which can fetch prices of up to $500 a gallon, has led to the overfishing of many species. In addition, careless methods like drift nets and longlines has killed 90% of Hammerhead sharks and 30% of all pelagic species.
A United Nations report indicates that over 50 species of sharks are hunted for their liver oil and a vast majority of them are on the brink of extinction. The deep-sea sharks are particularly vulnerable as they are slow to reproduce, making it difficult for their populations to recover from overfishing, and also, they tend to have larger livers, which allow them to swim in the deeper waters.
These large livers contain a lot of liver oil used to produce squalene, hence why these mammals are the most sought after and the most at risk of extinction.
Despite their immense ecological and societal value, marine megafauna are not only threatened by human exploitation, but also habitat loss, pollution, and ocean warming, which together have triggered population declines and local extinctions of many species over just the past century. The preservation of these creatures is critical not only for their survival but also for the delicately balanced health of the entire ocean ecosystem by maintaining the species below them in the food chain.
A study by BLOOM, a non-profit organization that works to preserve the marine environment and species, claims that the production of cosmetics accounts for 90% of shark liver oil production worldwide, contributing to approx. 2.7 million deep-sea shark deaths per year.
Although many countries have laws against shark finning (removing the shark’s fin and discarding the rest of the shark), fewer have laws against shark fishing in general. In the U.S., shark fishing is legal, albeit heavily regulated by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, which claims to have “some of the most robust environmental standards in the world”. The U.S. still produces 33% of the world’s squalene, with the remaining 67% coming from China.
Shark fishing is also legal throughout the European Union, but the European Commission’s 2009 Plan of Action for the Conservation of Sharks has helped protect vulnerable species by putting stricter restrictions on fisheries. In a follow-up assessment published 10 years after the plan was adopted, the European Commission addressed the success of tighter finning regulations but made no mention of fishing for squalene. In fact, the deep-sea gulper shark, one of the most in-demand species for liver oil, remains critically endangered off the coasts of Europe, whereas it’s considered vulnerable globally.
Sharks in Pet Food
Another contributor to these declines is the mislabelling of seafood products, either deliberate or accidental. The practice of mislabelling generally involves the substitution of a low-value product for one of a higher value to increase economic gain. However, the use of generic terms, such as “fish” “ocean fish” and “white fish” are becoming increasingly common. For example, pet foods frequently contain shark products even when not shown on the ingredients list.
DNA barcoding has in fact highlighted the presence of endangered shark species when it wasn’t listed as an ingredient. According to an article on Frontiers website, whose mission it is to:
“MAKE SCIENCE OPEN, SO THAT SCIENTISTS CAN COLLABORATE BETTER AND INNOVATE FASTER TO DELIVER SOLUTIONS THAT ENABLE HEALTHY LIVES ON A HEALTHY PLANET”.
FRONTIERS
A study was undertaken, where 45 different pet food products were purchased from 16 different brands in Singapore. Most of these products used the generic terms “fish”, “ocean fish”, “whitebait” or “white fish” in the ingredients list to describe their contents, some even specifically listed “tuna” or “salmon” while others did not indicate fish as an ingredient at all. None of the pet food products collected in this work specifically listed sharks on the ingredient list and yet, thanks to DNA barcoding, it has been found that all of them had shark DNA in them. Some even contained some endangered species of sharks. Why, because this is as an attempt to avoid waste in the shark fin and liver oil industries, where low-value carcasses are often discarded. This way, they still make some money back!
Sharks in Cosmetics
There are a lot of rumours around claiming that ‘Squalene’ (with an ‘e’) comes from sharks, whereas ‘Squalane’ (with an ‘a’) comes from olives. That’s not true. Unfortunately, both can come from sharks.
Squalene is a lipid produced naturally by your skin cells; it is often found in sunscreens, anti-aging creams, lotions, hair conditioners, deodorants, eye shadows, lip balms, lipstick, and face creams. The amount of squalene your body produces declines with age, with production slowing in your 20s or 30s. As a result, your skin becomes drier and rougher as you age and that’s when cosmetics help to correct this natural process by supplementing your body’s squalene supply, however many people are just not aware what ingredients are in the products they buy, and many of us are probably horrified to know that we could be contributing to the decline of endangered species!
The problem is that animal or plant squalene is too unstable in its natural form to be used in skincare products. In fact, squalane (with an “A”) is a saturated form of squalene (with an “E”) in which the double bonds have been eliminated by hydrogenation.
This hydrogenation process creates a softer version of the oil, thinner and more skin-friendly extending its shelf life: the perfect ingredient for any moisturising skin products out there.
If you are concerned about the ingredients in your beauty and cosmetic products, it’s best to look for clean beauty products that you can trust. “Clean Beauty”, is a term that is evolving to describe the movement which is pushing the cosmetics industry to create higher standards. Clean Beauty can be defined by products that are mindfully created and produced without any harmful ingredients that are ethically sourced and are made with the health of our bodies and the environment in mind.
Related – WHAT IS CLEAN BEAUTY? & HOW TO DE-CODE THE LABELS ON OUR BEAUTY PRODUCTS
The Plant-Based Alternative
While most squalene is still sourced from sharks globally, the market has gradually moved towards plant-based squalane over the last decade, due to growing awareness of the inhumane practices associated with the use of shark liver oil. It is crucial for consumers and advocacy groups to keep advocating for companies and corporations to source squalene strictly from plants to eradicate the use of shark-based squalene in cosmetics!
With that being said, there’s still a long way to go. The market is highly unregulated, and brands have no legal obligation to let consumers know the source of their squalane.
In the US and Canada, for example, products can still be labelled as ‘cruelty-free’ although they contain squalene, as the term lacks regulations in these regions.
Until laws are passed to ensure squalane-based products are accurately labelled, it’s up to us as consumers to research the products we buy. If squalene or squalane is listed, we should check whether or not it is 100% plant-based or vegetable-based. If the label doesn’t indicate the component’s source, reach out to the company and ask. To make this process a little bit easier, Shark Alliance has its very own Shark-Free Seal, that can be added to cosmetic products to notify shoppers in an instant whether the item is safe to buy.
There are also a range of research sources that I recommend in my post:
THE CHEMICALS IN OUR BEAUTY PRODUCTS, if you want to dig a bit deeper, which provide insights into ingredients and the science behind them, and some useful information about organisations and legislative websites, including the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, however if you are in the US, the FDA’s website is an excellent resource.
Shark Free Beauty Brands
Thanks to organisations such as Shark Alliance and Shark Allies, I was able to put together this list of brand recommendations. If after today, you are looking to change up your skincare and make-up products to something that is really cruelty-free, here are my top picks.
The Ordinary
The Ordinary has a no-frills approach to skincare, so its squalane offering is just that: 100% plant-derived squalane and nothing else.
Free from water, oil, alcohol, silicones and nuts in addition to vegan and cruelty-free. The company offers a serum for you to apply when your skin is feeling dry (and you could also use a little on your hair for added shine too) and a face cleanser from the same plant-based squalane line. A full list of ingredients for each product are listed on the website.
Biossance
Biossance’s parent company, Amyris, has been one of the leaders in helping to reduce the use of shark squalene. Using biotechnology, they pioneered a way to sustainably derive squalane from sugarcane! To this day, this methodology makes up about 30% of the market for all sources of squalane globally, saving an estimated 2-3 million sharks annually. Biossance offers a wide variety of plant-based squalane for you to choose from, so get your guilt-free pick!
According to a Good Housekeeping article, Biossance have nearly perfected the art of sourcing squalane from renewable sugar cane sources.
“BY PROTECTING SQUALANE THROUGH SUSTAINABLE SUGARCANE, WE NOT ONLY CREATE THE MOST STABLE FORM: WE ALSO SAVE APPROXIMATELY 2 MILLION SHARKS PER YEAR….A NUMBER THAT CONTINUES TO GROW”.
BIOSSANCE
Indie Lee
Like The Ordinary, Indie Lee’s offering of squalane facial oil is simple, yet effective, with minimal added ingredients. Theirs is a 100% olive-derived formula that will leave your skin feeling soft, supple and glowing.
True Botanicals
True Botanicals is a luxurious, consciously crafted skincare brand on a mission to deliver clean and sustainable products that are clinically proven to work at the highest standards.
True Botanicals prioritize both certified-organic and wild-harvested ingredients, and take sourcing seriously, tracing ingredients to their origins and ensuring that their cultivation and production are sustainable for the local community as well as the environment.
The brand is fully transparent and provides a full list of ingredients, as well as details about the key ingredients and their benefits.
True Botanicals are one of the few beauty brands in the world that carry the MADE SAFE® seal on each and every one of their products, which is the most comprehensive safety and sustainability standard available. The MADE SAFE® review process includes a complete investigation of every ingredient, including preservatives and the supply chain, leaving nothing uninspected. Their products are developed, produced, packaged, and shipped to ensure they minimize their impact on the environment.
It is exceedingly challenging to formulate by MADE SAFE® standards but they do, which means, only plant-based squalene here! Visit the MADE SAFE website to search for certified products.
Boots
Boots’ own No 7 skincare line is fully shark-free, meaning they only use plant-derived squalane to produce their cosmetics.
Their Squalane Capsules contain 100% Plant Derived Pure Squalane, a power-house ingredient, a hard-working hydrator to help strengthen skins moisture barrier to give you nourished and instantly smoother-looking skin.
Unfortunately, though, the retailer still sells a lot of non-cruelty-free brands in-store and online, so make sure to read each and every label!
Dermalogica
Dermalogica was co-founded by skin therapist, Jane Wurwand, who is one of the most recognised and respected authorities in professional skin therapy today. They are certified cruelty-free, gluten-free, and vegan. Dermalogica have been clean beauty brand since 1986.
Their formulas are free of artificial colours and fragrances, mineral oil, lanolin, S.D. alcohol, parabens and microplastics. They have a wide choice of squalane-based products, most of these made out of olive-based squalane. Although they have been experimenting with squalane from Brazilian sugar cane too and have so far, only launched one product within this line.
With 15% of the global squalane used for cosmetics purposes still coming from shark livers and now a strong 30% coming from plant-based ingredients, Dermalogica are on of the brands that are on the right track to putting an end to this animal cruelty.
I’ve mentioned a few brands that have adopted vegetable squalane for their beauty products but there are so many more out there. Just make sure to do your research and don’t hesitate to get in touch if you’d like our full list of ‘good brands’.