Feature Photo by Anna Shvets
When winter comes along, historically, there was nothing quite like the luxury and warmth of fur. For centuries, it has been a highly sought-after material due to its softness, insulation properties, and classic look. However, in recent times, concerns over the environmental and ethical implications of its use have sparked important discussions. In this article, I’ve researched the world of fur, exploring its history, production process, and its impact on both the environment and animal welfare. Plus, of course, you’ll also find a few material alternatives.
THE HISTORY OF FUR
Fur clothing has been a staple of human attire for thousands of years. Our resourceful ancestors utilised animal hides to craft garments that shielded them from the elements. As time progressed, the use of fur became a symbol of wealth and refinement, adorning the garments of nobility and pharaohs in ancient civilisations. During the Renaissance era, fur reached its pinnacle of popularity and became a hallmark of European aristocracy. Eventually, Hollywood’s golden age propelled fur to iconic status, as stars draped themselves in luxurious fur coats, epitomising the height of sophistication and elegance.
For centuries, fur served as a functional and durable material that provided warmth and protection to those who wore it. Animals were hunted for their meat and pelts, with fur serving as a practical resource for clothing. However, in the 20th century, the use of fur shifted from practicality to luxury and the material became associated with wealth and glamour.
This shift in perception caused the fur industry to explode, leading to fur farming and inhumane practices such as skinning animals alive. Today, many people view wearing fur as cruel and inhumane, and numerous campaigns have been launched to raise awareness of the issue. PETA is one such group that has fought against the use of fur in fashion.
ABOUT FUR PRODUCTION
The journey of fur from animal to fashion is a complex process that requires careful breeding, meticulous care, and humane (or in most cases, inhumane) harvesting. Understanding this process is essential for those, like me and you, seeking to make informed decisions about their fashion preferences.
Fur Farms
Most fur originates from fur farms, varied in size and practices. While some prioritise animal welfare, employing veterinarians and adhering to industry guidelines, others fall very short of these standards. These farms can house thousands of animals and are designed to maximise profits, with little regard for the environment or animals’ well-being.
Many fur farms have been the subject of significant controversy and ethical concerns due to the conditions in which animals are raised and the methods used to obtain their fur. Some of the key issues associated with fur farming include:
- Inhumane Living Conditions: Many fur-bearing animals on fur farms are typically kept in small, overcrowded cages, which restrict their movement and natural behaviours. These conditions can lead to stress, injuries, and a lack of proper socialization.
- Physical and Psychological Suffering: The stress and confinement experienced by animals in fur farms can result in physical and psychological suffering, leading to health problems and aggressive behaviour. According to Collective Fashion Justice, the stress of confinement sees foxes and mink resort to self-mutilation and even cannibalism.
- Lack of Environmental Enrichment: Animals in fur farms often lack access to proper environmental enrichment, which is essential for their mental and physical well-being. They may not have opportunities to engage in natural behaviors, like swimming or burrowing.
- High Mortality Rates: Fur farms typically have higher mortality rates compared to animals in the wild. Stress, disease, and injuries can lead to premature death among animals on fur farms.
- Disease Spread: The close confinement of animals on fur farms can create a breeding ground for diseases. These diseases can sometimes spread to humans and other animals, posing a public health risk.
TRAPPING
Some animals use in the fur industry, such as coyotes, lynx and raccoons, are free-living animals that are caught in steel traps before being shot. It is not uncommon for animals once caught in traps to chew their own legs off in order to escape these painful traps.
Breeding and Rearing
Animals are selectively bred for desirable pelt characteristics like colour, texture and density. During this process, animals are usually housed in wire cages, which restrict their natural behaviours and movements, as well as being stressful and overpopulated environments.
Nutrition and Care
In most cases, while animals are kept in these cages, veterinarians provide them with a controlled diet, in order to ensure healthy pelt growth. In these cases, veterinarians and animal husbandry experts monitor the animals’ health and well-being. Unfortunately, there are also many cases where animals are left hungry and not fed properly, reinforcing one of the many animal welfare issues behind the fur industry.
Harvesting
The methods used for harvesting are the most controversial aspect of fur production. Common methods include lethal injection, CO2 euthanasia, gassing, electrocution, neck breaking and even animals being skinned alive. These methods are often chosen for their efficiency rather than their compassion.
Processing
After harvesting, the pelts undergo a series of treatments to remove flesh, fat, and hair. This process, known as “dressing,” is essential to prepare the fur for its final form.
Craftsmanship
Once processed, fur pelts are sent to skilled artisans who transform them into a variety of garments and accessories.
ANIMAL WELFARE
The fur industry has been criticised for its impact on animal welfare. The confinement of animals in small cages and the methods used for harvesting have been the subject of heated debates. Some fur farms have implemented measures to improve animal welfare, while certification programs like the Furmark and Saga Furs have been introduced to ensure specific animal welfare standards are met.
As consumers, we can contribute to a more humane and conscientious fur production process by supporting brands that prioritise responsible sourcing and ethical practices. Furthermore, we can help the animal torture stop by simply exploring alternative materials, which can be a way to enjoy the aesthetic appeal of fur without contributing to its current production methods.
THE IMPACT OF FUR
Fur production is far from being an eco-friendly industry. In fact, it imposes significant negative impacts on both the environment and human health.
Pollution
Intensive fur farms generate a large amount of manure, which in turn produces greenhouse emissions, results in nutrient flows, loss of biodiversity and attracts numerous flies.
- Water run-off: It has been widely reported that fur farms around the world consistently violate environmental regulations. These farms dispose of manure, extra feed, and carcasses in wetlands, while run-off from fur farms contaminates watersheds.
- Water pollution: The runoff of manure from fur factory farms carries a high concentration of nutrients that leads to the proliferation of toxic algae in waterways. This phenomenon causes a loss of biodiversity and renders lakes unsuitable for swimming or fishing When algae blooms occur, they reduce the amount of oxygen available to other aquatic species, resulting in dead zones.
- Rural impact: Fur farms’ local residents are now starting to voice their concerns about the negative effects of these farms on rural life. Issues such as smell, flies, noise, and water pollution are cited as major concerns, as they can lower property values and tourism revenues.
Toxic Chemicals
After an animal is skinned, the pelt has to be treated with a variety of chemicals to prevent it from decay. Just as with the processing of leather, this involves toxic chemicals and heavy metals.
- Hazardous chemicals: To prevent biodegradation, the pelts are treated with toxic chemicals such as formaldehyde (which has been linked to leukaemia), chromium (which is carcinogenic), and ammonia. Furthermore, these chemicals’ waste is often dumped into the environment with very little care.
- Health risks: Chemicals used in fur processing pose a serious threat to both the health of consumers and workers in processing plants. These substances have been linked to allergies, cancer, and hormonal imbalances and can be absorbed through the skin or air and remain in the body for over 20 years, leading to chronic health effects.
Shockingly, there is currently no authoritative body responsible for monitoring hazardous chemical levels in fur products and enforcing regulatory benchmarks and industry standards.
Biodiversity Loss
Throughout history, the fur trade has had a harsh effect on biodiversity, leading to the depletion and extinction of many furred species such as the sea mink. Additionally, the industry’s introduction of invasive alien species, such as the introduction of American mink, raccoon dogs, muskrats, and coypu in Europe, has caused significant damage to native biodiversity.
The fur trade’s irresponsible practices towards biodiversity are highlighted by the fact that all the big cats in the wild and many of their smaller relatives are now endangered and protected from further exploitation, largely due to the excesses of the fur trade’s past.
Climate Change
The act of raising and killing animals on a mass scale for consumer purposes poses many ecological issues and dangers. Contrary to industry claims, fur farms are typically intensive factory farming systems with high energy usage rather than small, family-run facilities.
- Carbon footprint: Producing feed for the millions of animals kept for fur carries a considerable ecological footprint. While the fur industry argues that its use of food industry waste for animal feed and farm waste for biofuel is highly sustainable, it would actually be more sustainable to convert food waste directly into biofuel.
- Energy consumption: Energy is consumed at every stage of fur production, from transporting feed to fur farms to shipping the finished fur garments around the world. This process includes trappers setting and checking their traplines, sending the animal pelts to international auctions, and then to dressers, dyers, manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers, and eventually to the consumer.
ALTERNATIVES TO FUR
Many people find fur farming ethically objectionable, as it involves raising animals solely for their fur, often subjecting them to suffering and death purely for fashion.
An ethical consumer motivated by the interests of animals would avoid any new product made from fur. I too, take a zero-tolerance approach to brands that use fur or other non-domesticated animals, which is.
Here’s why I’ve put together a list of materials that can be considered alternatives to fur.
The fur farming industry has faced significant criticism, leading to changes in some countries and regions. Several nations have banned fur farming, and others have implemented stricter animal welfare regulations. Public awareness and ethical considerations have played a role in these changes, as more people choose not to support the fur industry.
Advances in synthetic materials and ethical fashion have provided alternatives to real fur, reducing the demand for fur from animals raised on farms.
Faux Fur
Faux fur, also known as synthetic or fake fur, is made from synthetic materials like acrylic, polyester, or modacrylic. Faux fur can mimic the appearance and texture of real fur and is often used in clothing, accessories, and home decor. It is a cruelty-free and animal-friendly option.
While faux fur may seem like the perfect alternative, it’s not without its problems. Faux fur is not always environmentally friendly. In fact, microfibres shed from synthetic garments every time they are washed, release microscopic plastic particles into our oceans and pose a threat to marine life and human health.
Furthermore, some products labelled as faux fur are actually made from real fur, often produced under terrible conditions in countries such as China.
The fast fashion industry has taken advantage of the faux fur trend, producing poor-quality garments using cheap labour and materials that prioritise profit over people, animals, and the planet. As faux fur continues to rise in popularity, I think it’s important to be aware of the ethical and environmental implications of this fashion trend.
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Bio-based fur
KOBA fur is a new type of fur that is partly bio-based, and made from vegetable crops instead of petroleum oil. Some KOBA furs are even made from coconut oil. KOBA, by Ecopel, a Franco-Chinese manufacturer, aims to appeal to high-end and luxury brands that have stopped using real fur. Positioned in favour of animal protection, the company is now turning to the sustainability of its materials.
Because it’s made from 37% plant-based components, which are by-products of the biofuel sector, KOBA fur has a much lower environmental impact than conventional faux fur, producing 30% less energy waste and 63% fewer production emissions.
Koba synthetic furs behave like real fur and offer the same characteristics; not only do they have the same aesthetic characteristics as real fur, their natural feel is soft, they offer excellent thermal insulation and are quick drying.
” I AM INCREDIBLY EXCITED ABOUT THIS NEW ECO-FRIENDLY, BIO-BASED fUR-fREE-fUR. IT IS ANOTHER BIG STEP TOWARD A FUTURE OF FASHION BEING SUSTAINABLE AND ANIMAL FREE.”
Stella McCartney
This transition in creating more respectful synthetics makes Koba an excellent example of circularity in fashion.
Recycled faux fur
Recycled faux fur is another environmentally friendly choice. The “recycled” part of faux fur isn’t the finished fabric but the vegan polyester that makes up its fibers.
The 100% recycled vegan polyester had a previous life as discarded PET plastic. (“PET” is just shorthand for “polyethylene terephthalate,” the chemical term for polyester.) PET plastic is primarily used in bottles for household goods like shampoo, water and drink bottles, and food containers. It’s phthalate-free, carcinogen-free, and FDA approved; some plastic used is also retrieved from the ocean.
Ideally, garment-to-garment recycling would be the most beneficial way to make use of this eco-friendly option. Of course, like any other recycled plastic textiles, however, there’s always the issue of disposal.
Gacha
GACHA takes eco-friendly faux fur to the next level. It’s 100% biodegradable, and can even be commercially composted. Completely decomposing in just 180 days, GACHA fur becomes nutritious compost.
Also manufactured by Ecopel, GACHA is their most sustainable ‘fur’ to date and being biodegradable is a huge step for the industry, providing a solution to problems of material end-of-life disposal.
Instead of ending up in landfill or releasing toxic chemicals back into nature’s soil without actually degrading, GACHA can be broken down to the point of potential environmental replenishment.
Recycled denim fur
Recycled denim fur may not be a perfect match to traditional animal fur, but it’s still a chic and edgy option. Created by Tiziano Guardini and Ksenia Shnaider, this unique material is made from repurposed denim that has been frayed. This fabric is currently going viral as a sustainable, waste-reducing alternative to animal fur.
In partnership with global denim giant, ISKO Creative Room, Guardini’s recycled denim fur was made using certified organic cotton along with pre-consumer recycled cotton.
While the denim “fur” obviously doesn’t look identical to real fur, it can be used a responsible, fun, hype and cruelty-free alternative to embellish clothes in the same way that real fur has done in the past.
the future of fur
Across the fashion industry, more and more designers are removing animal products from their designs. Over the years, an increasing number of luxury fashion houses have pledged to ban real animal fur from their collections.
Recent labels to make the change include Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Coach, Prada, Versace, Furla, Armani, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Shrimps, and Vivienne Westwood, with many of them pledging to use faux fur alternatives in their collections.
“The next generation of designers has a unique opportunity to reshape the fashion industry and preserve the planet’s delicate ecosystem. People are demanding textiles that are environmentally sustainable and can be recycled or biodegraded.”.”
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA)
Several high-street brands have also made a pledge not to use animal fur anymore, including Topshop, Zara, Gap, French Connection, AllSaints, Hobbs, John Lewis, Marks & Spencer, House of Fraser, Ted Baker, H&M and Whistles.
It’s important though to be aware that according to the Ethical Consumer some brands are still being caught out selling real fur as faux, and sadly there are still too many fashion brands that use animal fur to list them here.
As consumers, we should be aware of how the impact of our purchasing decisions, how and where the products we buy are being made.