Feature Photo by cottonbro studio
Every year, the sequin trend takes over the fashion world; this year is no exception. A simple Google search for “sequin” will provide you with a plethora of options, including sparkling dresses, shirts, blazers, trousers, and skirts from various brands like Marks & Spencer, Whistles, River Island, Jigsaw, Sezane, Karen Millen, Hush and Never Fully Dressed.
SPARKLES AT CHRISTMAS
Last year, Marks & Spencer’s sequin collection sold like hotcakes since their Christmas clothing and home ad launched on November 4th. Their “Champagne Sequin Collared Long Sleeve Shirts” and “Champagne Sequin Elasticated Waist Wide Leg Trousers” have sold more than 6,000 pieces each, totalling to more than 12,000 sold items in total, and that was just by the end of November!
Founder of Hire Street, Isabella West, reported that “sequins” and “sequin dresses” were among their top six search terms on the clothing rental platform last year, while according to Lizzie Dawson, fashion director at Boohoo Group’s Nasty Gal brand, “going-out tailoring” had seen a resurgence in popularity with cleaner, neater silhouettes, and sequins, satins, velvets, and bold colours.
It’s not just sequins though, but glitter as well. From makeup to clothing, to Christmas cards and home decorations, we can see this ‘embellishment’ pretty much everywhere this time of the year.
If you’ve ever put together a Christmas Tree in your home, then you’ll know just how much of this material you’ll be able to find on Christmas-themed objects this time of the year.
CHRISTMAS IS TRADITIONALLY A TIME TO PARTY!
It’s safe to say that from the end of COVID-19 restrictions, people (myself included) have started going out more again and actually enjoying the process of dressing up, however, with that, comes more waste and a potential increase in the sale of unsustainable textiles.
The Environmental Impact of Party Dressing
Sequins
Sequins have become increasingly popular for make-up, fashion and interior design due to their ability to add sparkle and glamour to any product. We seem to love this material even more when Christmas comes around. As everything sparkles around us, we want to sparkle just as brightly. However, the environmental impact of these sequin-covered products cannot be ignored.
The production of sequins involves the use of petroleum-based plastics, which is a non-renewable resource. This not only contributes to the depletion of natural resources but also increases carbon emissions during the manufacturing process.
The use of petroleum-based plastics also means that sequins are not biodegradable. As a result, when sequins end up in landfills, they take hundreds of years to decompose, contributing to the ever-growing waste crisis.
Another environmental concern with sequins is their contribution to the microplastic pollution in our oceans.
When sequins, or sequin-covered products are washed, the tiny plastic particles break off and enter our waterways, harming aquatic life and ultimately ending up in our food chain.
It is alarming to note that despite being worn only a few times, sequin-covered products are often discarded after the festive season, leading to an enormous amount of waste. The difficulty in removing individual sequins from the fabric makes it challenging to recycle or repurpose these items. In 2019, Oxfam reported that 1.7 million sequinned items would end up in landfills after the Christmas period, despite having been worn an average just five times.
While sequins may add glamour and sparkle to our lives, their impact on the environment should not be overlooked. We must take responsibility for our choices and make conscious decisions that have a positive impact on our planet.
Glitter
Glitter, just like sequins, has also caught the eye of many eco-friendly individuals, and as concerns about the environmental impact of glitter continue to grow, various measures have been taken to curb its usage. While some nurseries in England have prohibited the use of glitter by children, others in New Zealand have gone a step further and called for a ban on plastic glitter altogether. Due to concerns about microplastics, on the 17th October this year, the EU banned glitter, including the kind often used in makeup products, however environmentally-friendly alternatives made from “soluble, natural or inorganic material” are still allowed.
The reason for this is that glitter, which is made from etched aluminium bonded to polyethene terephthalate (PET), is a form of microplastic that can end up in our oceans and harm marine life. While there is no specific evidence yet on the impact of glitter on the environment, it is highly likely that it has similar detrimental effects as other microplastics.
In response to this growing concern, the UK recently banned microbeads in makeup and personal care products, including the type of glitter used in some rinse-off cosmetics.
However, this ban still leaves a lot of sparkles that could find their way into the sea.
Ultimately, it is crucial that we individuals play our part and take action to protect our oceans, and the creatures that call them home, from the harmful effects of glitter and other forms of microplastic pollution.
Eco-Friendly Alternatives To Sequins
As the concern about the environmental impact of sequins grows, some fashion brands are searching for recycled sequin alternatives. Although no 100% viable non-plastic options are available yet, many are interested in finding sustainable solutions to this hazardous material. Here are some of the alternatives that are currently being developed:
Recycled Sequins
Partially recycled sequins are fully available to the market. However, sequins made from recycled polyester still require a proportion of virgin polymer in the material, to maintain the quality that the design needs. It’s not a fully circular alternative to regular sequins.
Biodegradable sequins
Biodegradable sequins are in development. Designer Paula Knorr is collaborating with The Sustainable Sequin Company to create a clear and shiny film that will have all the properties of a regular sequin but can be composted and/or recycled at the end of its life. The project will develop natural polymer films capable of meeting the cost and performance requirements of a biodegradable sequin.
Plant-based sequins
Plant-based sequins are also in development. Designer Elissa Brunato has invented a sequin that is made from trees. These sequins are 100% cellulose, which is natural plant matter. They have a polymer structure that reflects light, creating a colourful shimmering effect without any added chemicals or colourants. They are strong enough to be sewn into garments, but they will eventually biodegrade. Elissa’s prototypes are made through a zero-waste process, preventing the estimated 30% of waste left over from typical sequin production.
Eco-Friendly Alternatives To Glitter
Our fascination with glitter traces back to the time of Cleopatra, and it seems unlikely that this love of sparkle will fade anytime soon. A group of Belgian scientists found that our attraction to shiny objects is innate and likely linked to our attraction to water. Our cavemen ancestors used mica flakes, while Neanderthal makeup contained flecks of reflective black mineral. However, given the persistent popularity of glitter, it’s crucial we find more environmentally friendly alternatives.
BIO-GLITTER
Noemi Lamanna, an avid glitter user, was devastated to discover that glitter is made of plastic. As a result, she became a glitter activist and spread the word about its harmful effects. Lamanna and her best friend founded Eco Glitter Fun, and their business has gained immense popularity since because of the use of Bio-glitter, a more eco-friendly alternative to traditional glitter, which Lamanna now offers for sale.
This innovative product utilises cellulose extracted from eucalyptus and other plant or tree matter as a substitute for PET. The glitter is just as dazzling as traditional glitter but is much more sustainable.
Bioglitter® is the first eco-friendly glitter of its kind, and it sets the standard for other biodegradable glitters. Its TÜV “OK Biodegradable Water” certification assures consumers that Bioglitter® will decompose safely in natural freshwater environments. While the product is insoluble in water, it biodegrades through the help of environmental bacteria and microorganisms in the natural environment, such as farmland, wastewater or rivers and lakes. The biodegradable material is converted into carbon dioxide, water and biomass by these microorganisms.
The brand donates 10% of their profits to support Ocean Generation, an inclusive global movement that exists to restore a sustainable relationship between humanity and the Ocean.
MICA
In certain applications, Mica has been positioned as an alternative to conventional plastic-based glitter. This naturally occurring mineral’s small particles provide a pearlescent shimmer that contrasts glitter’s bolder shine, making it an excellent choice for use in makeup.
But the road to sparkle never did run smooth – the main source of the world’s mica is from illegal mines in India, in which at least 20,000 children are believed to be working, with new facts about child labour in mica mining coming to light every year. The high-street cosmetics chain Lush has opted for synthetic mica, also known as synthetic fluoro phlogopite, having removed natural mica from production in January 2018, after recognising the problems associated with it.
Both natural and synthetic Mica are not biodegradable and do not break down naturally over time. Synthetic mica is made up of sedimentary mineral components, which means that it sinks and settles at the bottom of the water system. Some specialists say that its non-biodegradability is not an issue though, considering that everything this material is made of, is found in nature anyway.
There are now many biodegradable alternatives to traditional glitter, including PLA glitter, Cellulose polymer glitters, Geonature®, Geotech, Geodiamond®, and Geoflake®. Each of these bio-glitters and mica-based glitters offers distinct benefits compared to traditional glitter.
PLA Glitter
PLA is a bioplastic that can be economically produced from renewable sources. Although it does not contain PET, it still offers a similar aesthetic to traditional glitter. However, PLA can only degrade in extreme industrial composting conditions and does not biodegrade at ambient temperatures, which can pose a problem for its disposal.
Cellulose Polymer Glitters
Glitter based on cellulose polymer is a naturally abundant material that biodegrades at ambient conditions and does not contain aluminium. This option, however, is unstable in water-based applications and may begin to degrade quickly. The lack of aluminium also limits the sparkle effect.
Geonature®
Geonature® is a biodegradable glitter that uses a microcrystalline cellulose film instead of PET. It is designed to degrade quickly and safely in natural freshwater environments. The cellulose film is metallized with aluminium and coated similarly to traditional glitter production. It offers high brilliance and excellent reflection in nine different colours. However, Geonature® is not suitable for use in water-based applications.
Geoflake®
Geoflake® is based on synthetic mica and offers excellent lustre effects because of its large particle size. It is completely biodegradable and safe to use. Unlike natural mica, synthetic mica gives a cleaner sparkle finish due to containing fewer heavy metals. Geoflake® products are also vegan, however, Geoflake® does not behave exactly like traditional glitter and products with Geoflake® will feel much smoother on the skin than those with traditional glitter.
Geodiamond®
Geodiamond® products are based on borosilicate glass coated with titanium dioxide and a colourant. They offer exceptional lustre and reflection properties and come in a range of colours. Most of the Geodiamond® range is suitable for use in all formulations (water, oil, or alcohol-based) except the coloured ones, which are not stable in water-based formulations. The XL option in the Geodiamond® range mostly closely mimics the effect of glitter due to the large particle size, although it is not recommended for use around the eyes.
so,, finally........
All these alternatives offer a lot of the features of traditional glitter and sequins and can be great alternatives depending on the application. Make sure you do your research before you buy your next party dress this year, but also be mindful of what you can and can’t turn into waste. From taking care of your sequin top to opting for bold colours rather than sparkling features, it’s up to us individuals to make more eco-friendly choices.
