Feature Photo Credit: by Marcos Flores
I don’t know where you spent Christmas, but I was at my parents in Devon, and it was pretty cold! This is the time of year when we get out our winter clothing, but did you know that hidden within many of our winter coats and puffer jackets are feathers, often known as “down”? The term “down” refers to the soft layer closest to a duck or goose’s skin, mainly located in the chest and belly regions and is used in coats and jackets with the purpose of keeping us warm.
Of course, down is not the only feather type being used in the fashion industry. Most statement feather looks from luxury brands use various species of bird feathers, including ostrich and peacock feathers. These feathers are fluffy, symmetrical, colourful and to be honest, they just look impressive.
FEATHERS AND THE FASHION INDUSTRY
While some of the big the fashion brands continue to move beyond fur, due to public outcry around the exploitation and destruction inherent to its use, the industry often turns to feathers from wild and farmed birds to create their flamboyant designs.
Remember the pink feather dress worn by Lady Gaga at The Met Gala a few years back? It was a full feather ensemble with a Valentino tag.
All this feather use has made me wonder about the animal’s treatment in production. And while down and ostrich feathers are biodegradable, there’s a lot more to sustainability that we need to consider.
The History Of Feathers in the fashion industry
Feathers have been a consistent presence in fashion, with designers using them to create luxurious and dramatic designs. Prada’s feather cuffs are a recent example of this trend. However, this is nothing new. From feather earrings to feather-trimmed hats, feathers have been associated with maximalism and excess throughout history.
The Industrial Revolution brought luxuries to the masses, and feathers became a status symbol coveted by the new mass market. Milliners, or hat makers, were among those to take advantage of new technologies, providing vibrant designs to add some drama to women’s fashion. Consequently, birds were hunted in every corner of the globe to supply plumes to milliners around the world.
On a walk in New York in 1886, the American Museum of Natural History’s ornithologist, Frank Chapman, infamously observed some 40 native bird species on women’s hats, some with an entire stuffed bird attached. This obsession with feathers drove some bird species to extinction.
At the turn of the 20th century, the public appetite for ornate plumes was so great that feathers fetched obscene amounts of money.
In the 1920s, feathers were embraced by the flapper style, creating a sense of frivolity, fun and decadence. Actresses like Marlene Dietrich and Josephine Baker sashayed across the screen in elaborate costumes adorned with feathers, setting a trend that was to last for decades.
Today, feathers continue to make a bold statement on the runway while keeing us warm during the winter months. However, the fashion industry is finally becoming more aware of environmental issues and ethical treatment of animals, which is also closely linked to the use of feathers within the industry.
Feather Production
There’s nothing ethical or sustainable about the production of feathers, no matter how sustainable and biodegradable this material might be marketed as.
Ostrich Feathers
Ostrich farming was established in South Africa during the latter half of the 1800s, and it remains the largest producer of ostrich products today. The industry is primarily focused on selling ostrich feathers and skins for use in the fashion industry. Although ostrich farming occurs in many areas worldwide, it is a non-native species in many of these locations. As a result, ostriches are often denied access to their natural vegetation and instead fed lucerne in a controlled environment that prioritises commercial value over their well-being.
Unfortunately, ostrich farms frequently prioritise profit over animal welfare. From being left exposed to the elements during extreme weather conditions, to keeping a large number of birds in a small area, there’s no developed codes of practice in place in the United States and Canada, indicating a blatant disregard for ostrich welfare.
Down Feathers
Down is used in many contemporary jackets and coats, and is a product that is never ethical. It is either ripped from live birds or their carcasses. Ducks and geese are the two species that suffer and are eventually slaughtered for down. These birds are sentient and sensitive creatures. Geese, for example, choose one partner for life and mourn their partner’s death. Ducks show happiness by bobbing their heads up and down and enjoy socialising.
Ducks and geese go through the same horrible treatments as ostriches do. From being exposed to the harsh weather conditions to being caged and confined in small pieces, the production of dawn comes with many unethical practices.
The Impact On Animals
It’s important to acknowledge that the feather industry is a slaughter industry, as no farms exist solely for the production of down and feathers. Feathers are a valuable by-product of the meat industry, and as such are a valuable co-product of meat and skin production, generating significant profit. The global down and feather market value continues to grow, with the industry estimated to be worth over $6.6 billion USD. Shockingly, 3.3 billion ducks are slaughtered worldwide each year, which equates to 9 million that are killed daily.
Despite the introduction of the Responsible Down Standard certification and other ethical down certifications, these practices do not safeguard ducks, geese and ostriches from being killed. Although it may reduce the level of suffering involved in their lives, it’s essential to acknowledge that commercial systems that use animals to generate profit will always have a level of cruelty and eventual killing. Just think that ostriches can live for up to 40 years in their natural habitat but are usually slaughtered at 12 months old.
Live Plucking
For those who seek to avoid the use of down from birds who have been plucked alive, it is imperative to thoroughly vet suppliers and companies. Even those certified as Responsible Down Standard compliant have been known to continue live-plucking ducks and geese on farms.
In some instances, suppliers have admitted to misleading consumers about their practices, stating that admitting to live-plucking would result in a loss of sales. There are some farms and fashion brands that assert feathers are gathered during birds’ natural moulting process each year. This argument suggests that feathers loosen during moulting, making it a painless practice. However, since all birds on a farm do not moult simultaneously, there is no guarantee that farmed birds are not still being plucked painfully.
Force-feeding
When down isn’t sourced from ducks and geese who have been plucked alive, it often comes from birds who have lived through suffering, for the production of foie gras. If you don’t know yet, foie gras means “fat liver” in French and is a paté made from the livers of ducks and geese who have been confined to cages and force-fed fatty food with a pipe that is pushed down their throat.
This process can grow a duck’s liver up to ten times its normal size, and after 15 weeks of this pain and suffering, ducks are slaughtered for their liver.
Whether raised for meat or foie gras, ducks are killed at only a few weeks or months old, despite naturally living for over a decade.
Factory Confinement
The vast majority of ducks are factory farmed, as with most animals reared for production worldwide. As ducks and geese are aquatic birds, they should spend the vast majority of their time on the water or nearby it. Despite this, ducks on factory farms are packed into sheds full of hundreds or thousands of other birds, and are largely denied surface water to float in. This can cripple birds, who are not built to carry their weight on land so often.
This confinement can also lead to aggressive behaviour for these birds. In fact, many of these farms tend to cut or burn the ends of birds’ beaks off to avoid injuries when fighting rather than addressing the root cause, which is in itself a torture for the animal.
A Lack Of Animal Protection Laws
The global down industry relies heavily on countries with little to no laws protecting animals, particularly farmed animals. In fact, animal protection laws across the globe are surprisingly inadequate. For example, China, where the majority of down is obtained, currently has no national laws in place against animal violence. Additionally, many countries including Australia, South Africa, the United States, and the UK have animal protection laws, but they tend to exclude farmed animals in order to protect industry interests.
This means that harming animals like ducks and geese is considered permissible as long as it is deemed “necessary” for the industry’s profit margin. Unfortunately, this is the case for the feather down industry, which is used to produce outdoor apparel and for the farming of ostrich feathers, used for high-end fashion pieces.
The Impact On The Planet
The production of feathers not only harms the animals, but it also has an impact on the planet. Although down is biodegradable and won’t linger for years or release harmful toxins into the soil if discarded, there are other factors to consider.
Reduced Biodegradability
While feathers are biodegradable, down is often encased within jackets or coats that are not made of biodegradable materials. Even when recycled polyester is used as the outer shell, it acts as a barrier between the outside environment and the down inside, preventing it from fully breaking down.
Considering that the equivalent of one garbage truck’s worth of textiles and clothing is sent to landfills every second worldwide, it’s important to note that the polyester in synthetic jackets filled with down can still take as long as 200 years to decompose.
Inefficient Land Use
Like other animal agricultural systems, the process of raising birds is inefficient. This means that the resources invested to produce feathers and meat exceed what is ultimately produced. Factory farming not only utilises the land on which the farm sits but also requires extensive monoculture cereal crops to feed ducks, geese and ostriches. Shockingly, farmed animals consume 36% of all global crop calories, but moving away from animal agriculture could allow for more productive land use. This shift would allow for rewilding, which could aid in restoring biodiversity and carbon sequestration.
Eutrophication
Factory farms have another significant impact on the planet, called eutrophication. Eutrophication is the process in which a body of water becomes too rich in particular nutrients, resulting in the dense growth of blue-green algae that can suffocate everything underneath the water’s surface, and subsequently harm its biodiversity. This eutrophication can result in dead zones where aquatic life cannot survive. Runoff from factory farms like those confining birds is full of phosphorus-rich faeces, which often results in eutrophication.
Water Pollution
The impact of the feather industry on our planet is not limited to factory farms, but water in the vicinity of slaughterhouses is also endangered by this industry. When ducks and geese are killed and plucked, it generates a significant amount of wastewater that is often disposed of by abattoirs. The organic substances present in this wastewater have a detrimental impact on the environment (eutrophication), as well as on surrounding communities, which are usually economically disadvantaged.
One slaughterhouse that killed birds was accused of dumping wastewater to such an extent that nearby residents experienced miscarriages, birth defects, epilepsy, and other illnesses.
ALTERNATIVES TO DOWN AND FEATHERS
As previously mentioned, even ethical certifications like the Responsible Down Standard cannot prevent birds from living in factory farms and being killed prematurely, often experiencing cruelty before their death. Given these circumstances, it’s impossible to purchase new feathers and down without directly contributing to animal suffering. Even recycled feathers are not always 100% recycled. If you’re considering a new product made with recycled down or feathers, ask how the brand ensures that 100% of the material is reclaimed from post-consumer products such as duvets and pillows, and not from birds that have been treated cruelly.
To protect animals from harm, it’s best to opt for animal-free alternatives to feathers, however if in doubt, you can use TrackMyDown, which offers traceability, allowing consumers a more-informed decision based on the performance and sustainability of the exact insulation inside a product.
Fortunately though, there are several sustainable options available, with innovation ongoing. Here are some of the most sustainable alternatives:
PrimaLoft® P.U.R.E.™
This material is proven to be warmer than down, and unlike down, it is water-resistant. It is made of post-consumer waste plastics, resulting in a 48% emissions reduction during production.
PrimaLoft® Bio™
With the same benefits as other PrimaLoft® materials, this material is 100% recycled and can completely biodegrade within two years.
Made entirely from post-consumer recycled material, PrimaLoft® Bio™ fibres break down into natural elements, when exposed to specific environments, like landfills. oceans, or wastewater. The fibres remain highly durable throughout their usable lifecycle in a garment.
PrimaLoft® PLUME™
PrimaLoft® ThermoPlume is made entirely from post-consumer recycled materials and unlike down, PrimaLoft® ThermoPlume it maintains warmth even when wet. The small, silky fibre plumes maintain a supple, loose feel that is comfortable as a mid-layer or in an insulated jacket.
The Canadian Brand Frank and Oak uses this material in their Ski jackets and other brands such as Nike, ALO Yoga, FP Movement, and Ecoalf use PrimaLoft® ThermoPlume for outdoor and performance textiles.
Thermore
Thermore are the creators of the original Ecodown® and Ecodown® Fibers Light, which deliver an extremely soft, yet ultralight free fibre insulation that is 20% warmer than comparable products. This material is made from 100% recycled, post-consumer PET plastic. Outerwear insulated with Ecodown® Fibers can save up to 10 bottles per garment.
Unlike feather down, it doesn’t stay damp, grow mould, or become heavy when wet, making it durable and long-lasting.
Brands like Kathmandu and Peter Hahn are already using the material for clothing insulation.
Recycled materials
Post-consumer waste is used in many coat fillings, making them a sustainable alternative to down. Since these fibres are inside of another material and in a garment that isn’t often machine-washed, microfibre shedding is less of a concern, though still something to consider.
FLWRDWN™ + FLWRFILL™
These innovative materials are made with wildflowers; FLWRDWN™ is a down-fill made using a combination of wildflowers, a biopolymer and aerogel, whilst FLWRFILL™, a bio-based alternative to synthetic, fossil fuel-derived wadding, combines wildflowers with lyocell and a biopolymer developed in collaboration with Imbotex.
So far, Pangaia has been the true brand ambassador for this material and is using it for most of their winter puffer jackets.
CONCLUSION
In conclusion, the fashion industry’s use of down and feathers raises significant ethical concerns due to the inherent cruelty involved in their sourcing and production. Even with certifications aiming for ethical standards, the reality of birds enduring factory farm conditions and premature death remains a distressing truth.
Thankfully, the market offers various innovative and eco-friendly options that not only provide warmth and functionality but also prioritize animal welfare and environmental conservation. New and innovative materials showcase the strides made in creating cruelty-free and sustainable alternatives to down.
Leading brands such as Patagonia, Houdini, Isbjörn, Kathmandu, Peter Hahn, and Pangaia have embraced these alternatives, integrating them into their clothing lines. This shift towards animal-free insulation materials demonstrates a commitment to ethical fashion and encourages consumers to make informed, compassionate choices when selecting winter wear.
Ultimately, opting for these sustainable alternatives presents an opportunity for conscientious consumers to align their values with their purchasing decisions, supporting a fashion industry that prioritizes animal welfare, environmental sustainability, and innovation. By choosing these cruelty-free alternatives, individuals can actively contribute to a more ethical and compassionate fashion landscape while staying warm and stylish.
